Novr 7th This morning the “Africaine” left Nepean Bay, and in a few hours reached Cape Jarvis; following the direction of Capt Lipson, we sailed slowly along the shore, and anchored in a Bay where we discerned the “Rapid” & on an adjacent hill, some tents. A boat, which put off on our approach brought us Col Light, who piloted the ship into Rapid Bay. Having dined a party of us accompanied Col Light on shore, being desirous of seeing as much as we could of the land now, in case we should have to move onwards with the ship. Now we found that the accounts we had heard at Kangaroo Island of the beauty of the mainland, glowing as they were, were not exaggerated, for it is impossible to imagine a more lovely valley than that which skirts the Bay. The soil produces an abundant crop of the finest grass – it is watered by a rivulet containing a number of fresh water fish, & trees of a very large size are found at a distance of perhaps from 30 to 50 yds asunder. The surface is hilly, but not mountainous, & the splendid description of country extends inland to Cape [Lake?] Alexandrina. Delighted as we were with the spot we determined on the recommendation of Col Light to proceed higher up the gulf, where he discovered there was at all times fresh water, & a fine harbour for shipping of which advantage Rapid Bay is destitute. At Cape Jarvis the Colonel (through the medium of a sealer & his native woman) has contrived to conciliate the natives, about 30 of whom are now resident in Rapid Bay. From them he has selected a few strong & well disposed men, whom he has clothed, & employed in a variety of work & dignified with the title of “Marines”. They are content with a piece of biscuit as a recompense. They are honest & obliging, & to each the Col has given an English name of which they are remarkably proud. A garden has been made which flourishes well, all seeds being far more advanced than any I had seen at Kangaroo Island.
About JHull
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Monday 7 November 1836
Just as I had received my letters this morning and was eagerly opening the first, a message arrived for me to attend a labour. Mrs. Hoare, a wife of a labourer. She is safely delivered of a fine boy who, at my request, is to be named “Rapid”. I was not detained long and again returned to read of all that was dear to me, and when I was assured of their welfare and health the happiness of that moment I would not have exchanged for millions. One of the labourers, Heath, in fighting, fractured the first metacarpal bone of the right hand. I have now reduced it and he is comfortable. Another man, Bristow, is under my care with a dreadfully inflamed finger from a fishbone wound. This shows a great disposition to [tooltip color=”grey” text=”flake off – usually refers to dead tissue”] slough [/tooltip]and an amputation is not improbable…
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Sunday 6 November 1836
6 November-At four p.m. the Africaine, Captain Duff, arrived with Mr Gouger the Colonial Secretary, Mr Brown the Emigration Agent, and many other passengers. I went on board and found that the ship had touched at Nepean Bay, where hearing that I had ordered all the surveying party and stores to this part of the Gulf, they followed, imagining some very urgent reasons had induced me to take such a step, contrary to the instructions given in England, which were for the stores to remain at Nepean Bay. My reasons were sent home to the Commissioners very soon after. Mr Gouger was of course very anxious to know where we should settle – a question I was by no means prepared to answer; and the only thing I could do was to recommend his proceeding to Holdfast Bay for the present. This was not at all satisfactory, everyone in such circumstances being anxious not to move again after landing all his embarked property; I could only recommend this place as one from which they were the least likely to re-embark – stating strongly at the same time, that I could not guarantee permanent settlement there. To make the best of a doubtful case, both Mr Gouger and Mr Brown agreed to take their chance; and Captain Duff having very kindly offered me a passage, I embarked at ten a.m., on the 7th. After beating against northerly winds, we came to at six p.m. the following day (8 November), at Holdfast Bay, where we saw the Rapid at anchor. Mr Field and Mr Morphett came down to meet us before we anchored; the accounts given by these gentlemen, did not cheer the spirits of our newcomers although they were anything but unfavourable. I had to undergo a little torment, which I kept to myself, being still persuaded that the connection of these plains with the creek, their immense extent to the N.E., consequently towards the Murray, and the certain conviction in my own mind of the existence of plenty of rich soil, would, after a month or two of dissatisfaction, fully quiet any apprehensions now entertained by these gentlemen. And these surmises were more strongly impressed by the trip Messrs Field, Kingston, and Morphett had made a few miles inland, during which they had come to a fresh water river, much larger than any we had yet seen.
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Sunday 6 November 1836
Sunday, Novr 6. Light airs & fine. Wind N.E. Course S.E.b E. 8. Fresh breezes & fine. Performed Divine Service. Noon. Miles run, 68 + 10264 = 10332. Lat. 37E24′ So. Longe 21E49′ Et. St Paul’s S.88EEt, 2650 miles. P.M. Variable.
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Saturday 5 November 1836
The last three days being almost maddened by the flies, I have been building myself a hut which will in some measure keep off these persevering tormentors. As the heat is excessive in the middle of the day and I have nearly half a mile to fetch my wood I fear it will be an endless job. The [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] arrived from Kangaroo Island with the rest of the Surveyors etc. on Wednesday evening. The party is now divided into two – one of which sailed yesterday at 1 p.m. in the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip] for Holdfast Bay where that division will for the present be stationed. We are in momentary expectation of the arrival of Pullen who remained behind at the Island with the hatch boat to bring over Dr. Wright of the “Cygnet” who is detained at a bad case of midwifery. Colonel Light has appointed Dr. Wright to the Holdfast Bay station and I remain in care of the Rapid Bay one. When Pullen arrives Colonel Light will join the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip] with him and proceed round the Gulf and then to Port Lincoln leaving Maria here under my care.
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Saturday 5 November 1836
Saturday Nov 5th On Sunday last one of our large
Sows was found dead. She was going about as usual
the previous Day, but in miserable lean condition —
Chandler did not go to Work untill Wednesday, during which
time Powell assisted me with the live Stock, and commen-
-ced building a Goose House that was finishd Yestdy
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Saturday 5 November 1836
Saturday, Novr 5. Moderate winds, squally at times. Head E.S.E.
Wind S.W. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 162 + 10104 = 10264.
Lat. 37E28′ So. Longe 20E20′ Et. Cape Agulhas, N.4EWt, 162 miles.
P.M. Light airs & fine. From 8 to midnight, Calm and fine.
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Saturday 5 November 1836
5 November-Employed in writing, drawing &c., and the men in building huts.
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Friday 4 November 1836
Friday Nov 4. A boxing match on the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The quarterdeck was the deck between the main mast and the back of the ship.”] quarter deck [/tooltip] in which the
Governor performed in his character only of Captain we hope. A
youngster the son of Mr Eales the kind hearted & respected purser
was ordered to prevent any one from passing a certain point on the
main deck. He forgot the order & the consequence was that his Excellency
with his own proper hands boxed the ears of the lad accompanying
the punishment with a volley of oaths of a quality only to be heard
on board the Buffalo & the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The coachmen were known for their strong language”] Hackney coach stands of London[/tooltip]. This is
an original way of maintaining dignity and encouraging senti-
-ments of respect towards him amongst the respectable passengers!
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Friday 4 November 1836
4 November-The Rapid sailed for Holdfast Bay; I was obliged to remain at Rapid Valley, on account of the crowded state of my cabin, and intended going up in the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A class of net fishing boats used on the Thames estuary. The Rapid’s boat was built specially for the Colonization Commissioners by W.T. Gulliver of Wapping.”] hatch-boat[/tooltip], which was hourly expected from Nepean Bay.
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Friday 4 November 1836
Friday, Novr 4. Moderate breezes & fine wr. Wind Westly. Head E.S.E. Water on board, 98 tons. Miles run, 178 + 9924 = 10102. Lat. 37E57′ So. Longe 16E45′ Et. P.M. Fresh breezes & fine. 8. Wind S.W.b W. Squally.
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Thursday 3 November 1836
Thursday, Novr 3. Fresh breezes & fine. Wind Noly. Course S.E. Empd filling empty tanks with salt water. Current S.E. 13 miles. Miles run, 123 + 9801 = 9924. Lat. 38E10′ So. Longe 13E9′ Et. P.M. Fresh breezes shortened sail. Midt. Moderate.
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Thursday 3 November 1836
NOVEMBER 3.-This morning a boat containing some white men and one black woman, an aboriginal native, arrived to concert measures for discovering the ramblers. From the different accounts which we heard we really began to be very uneasy about them, but these people seemed to be under no apprehension as to their final safety. They said that the journey across the island which they proposed was utterly impossible, as the brushwood would so completely entangle them that they would lose their way and might never be found again, either alive or dead. But before I proceed any further I must give some account of the black woman, who, being the first native we had seen, excited our curiosity. Her clothing consisted of a red woollen cap, such as sailors often wear, and a shirt of the same material under a coat of thick leather, such as in England is used for harness and to cover trunks. Her countenance was pleasing, though perfectly black, and her hair not woolly, like that of African natives, but long and straight on the forehead. Her legs and feet were bare, and round her neck hung several rows of glass beads. Her chin was also ornamented with a kind of beard, and whiskers grew at the sides of her face. But what most surprised us was her musical voice, and the pleasing intonation with which she spoke the English language, for what she said she uttered with a proper accent and almost with fluency. Her height was about five feet six inches, and her age apparently about twenty-five years, but on being asked how old she was she replied, ” I cannot tell,” and this is the case with them all. She was taken into the steerage and regaled with biscuit and beef, which she seemed to relish exceedingly. She talked with great confidence as to being able to trace the young men, as she knew every part of the island. She added that there was no fear of their perishing, especially as they were provided with guns.
As soon, therefore, as it had been pointed out by the map on what part of the island the missing passengers had landed, the men, with the black woman, departed in the boat and Mr. Thomas accompanied them. He went to arrange with Mr. Hallett, who, with his family, had landed on the island and erected a tent there, as to what remuneration should be given for the search and how it should be conducted. At length it was agreed that four men and two women should set out immediately, with a sufficient supply of provisions and water, in a boat to that part where the young men had landed and follow them through the bush until they came up with them. For this service they were to receive six pounds. Accordingly they set off.
Mr. Thomas returned on board, and we then learnt that royalty itself had condescended to pay us a visit in the person of the black woman, for she was no other than the Princess Con, daughter of King Con, a chief of one of the native tribes. Her father was at that time on Kangaroo Island.
In the evening the sky was again illuminated by the burning brushwood.
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Thursday 3 November 1836
Thursday Nov. 3. Mr Fisher & I had a [tooltip color=”grey” text=”prolonged discussion”] sederunt [/tooltip]of three hours with the
Governor, & it pleased me to find that his opinion of his Excellency’s
powers coincides with my own. The Governor however is not yet satisfied,
nor is he pleased, though he was obliged to yield to our objection to the
tag-rag & bob-tail magistrates he wished to appoint. The consequence is
that Gouger, Fisher, Col. Light, & Mr Stephens the Manager of the S.A.
Company, are only to be retained on the list for the present.
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Thursday 3 November 1836
Novr 3rd The favourable breeze continuing, about 4 o’clk this morng I rose & went on Deck to watch the appearance of the shore of Kangaroo Island, & Yorke’s Peninsular [sic] at the South…
As I watched the changing shore & reflected on the years of anxiety & labour which I had devoted to this enterprise, the alternations of hope & chagrin, which I had suffered as the prospect of its accomplishment appeared near or distant, the degree of success which had at length been attained, & withal the Providential protection which “He who holds the waters in the hollow of His Hand” had been pleased to extend to us, my varied emotions almost subdued me, and I was by no means sorry to retreat to a part of the ship, where undisturbed I cd watch the progress of the vessel. About 11 o’clk Nepean Bay opened to us, and all eyes were directed to the shore in the expectation of seeing our fellow-Colonists. At length we observed 3 vessels at anchor in the Bay: upon which, signals were hoisted & the guns fired. These were answered from the ships, & the shore, and presently a boat put off which in due time brought to us Mr Samuel Stephens, the Company’s Colonial Manager. He had not been on board many minutes when an accident happened, which might have ended calamitously. One of his boat’s crew (a valuable man named Thomas) who had resided in the Island some years, fell overboard & rapidly drifted [tooltip color=”grey” text=”To be any distance behind a vessel.”] astern[/tooltip]! Fortunately he was an excellent swimmer, & having an oar in his hand, with great care he supported himself in the water; a few minutes sufficed to lower a boat & in less than 5 minutes he was safely in it. On congratulating him on the favourable termination of his accident he feared nothing for the water, but his dread was of sharks, which infest the Bay, & which are larger here than any I have before heard of – it is not uncommon to catch them of a length from 16 to 18 ft — Before deciding where to take up our temporary residence, until the arrival of the Governor, Brown & I thought it expedient to see Col Light, who was then surveying at Cape Jervis. We accordingly sent for Capt Lipson (the Harbour Master) & who we understood was in the Colonel’s confidence, & in the evening he rowed from the “Cygnit” to us. From him we learned that a most enchanting country had been discovered at Cape Jervis, with which Col Light was so much pleased as to be almost fixed in its favour, but that its superior advantages to Kangaroo Island were not the only cause of the removal of the depôt from the Island; the conduct of Mr Stephens being his chief motive.
Everything which I have observed, & the report received from others not connected with Mr S. goes to prove that Kangaroo Island may be made a flourishing settlement. The harbour of Nepean Bay may be said to be perfect – secure from all winds and will allow of the entrance of vessels much larger than the “Africaine”, requiring the expenditure of but little money or labour to make excellent landing places. Capt Duff speaks in the very highest terms of the anchorage (sand & mud) & is so much pleased with the facilities afforded for shipping that as a S. Australian land proprietor, he says he would be content to have his section placed adjacent to this Bay. The land is so thickly wooded that the clearing of it would require a deal of labour & cost a considerable sum. The timber is not large, & is serviceable therefore only for rafters, for roofs, fencing, & purposes of that kind.
…In wandering with [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Harriet”] H. [/tooltip]among the partially cleared brushwood, we one day fell upon a Hut – one room of about 12 ft square, inhabited by 2 men & a woman – a native of Van Dieman’s Land, of most forbidding appearance. The men were run-away Sailors, who had never approached the Company’s settlement with a view to obtaining employment. One of them sternly ordered the woman to get some tea & make it. She accordingly cut off a branch of the tree, and put it into the pot, thus obeying the mandate of her lord. The taste of this decoction was not disagreeable.
…No birds have been procured, though we saw black swans, pelicans & a beautiful blue bird, name unknown. Kangaroos are not to be procured but there is opossum of a small kind, also a small species of Kangaroo (called Walibi). The emigrants landed from the “Africaine” have been busy putting up their tents, no place of any kind having been prepared for their reception. No religious service has been performed on the Island since the landing of the first expedition – now nearly 3 months. The opinion which the sealers (Stephen & Lipson) give of the pedestrian party succeeding in reaching the settlement are very discouraging – nay, fearful! All agree in saying it is impossible but that they should be lost in the woods & unless very fortunate in finding water, would be starved to death. With a degree of folly hardly to be imagined they refused to take from the boats fresh water which had been provided for them, thus they wd in a few hours be suffering from thirst to be quenched only in such pools as might be left from the winter rains. On hearing this statement we thought it advisable to send after them, & an agreement was made with 3 sealers & a native woman to go in search of them, & they immediately started on their expedition. Reliance is chiefly placed on the sagacity of the native woman, who is distinguished for her skill in tracking.
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Wednesday 2 November 1836
Wednesday, Novr 2. Fresh breezes & rainy. Head S.E. Wind W1y. Current N.W. 14 miles. Noon. Mode & fine. Miles run, 185 + 9616 = 9801. Lat. obs. 37E10′ So. Longe T.K. 10E33′ East. P.M. Light winds. Filled 6 tons of salt water. 8. Nearly calm.
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Wednesday 2 November 1836
2 November-Employed all day in landing some stores from the Rapid, having determined on dividing the surveying party into two, one under Mr Kingston and the other under Mr Finniss, to make as many observations on this side the Gulf as possible during my absence at Port Lincoln or elsewhere, as I was perfectly satisfied as to the soil and extent of the country. Mr Kingston with the largest party, and Mr Gilbert with the greatest part of the stores, were directed to embark on board the Rapid for Holdfast Bay, and Mr Finniss to remain with his party at Rapid Valley; Mr Jacob taking charge of the stores for this party.
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Wednesday 2 November 1836
Novr 2nd To-day the wind blew from the N.E. which enabled us to make some advance. As in course of [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Ships could not sail directly into the wind, but they could sail across it at an angle. So, to move forward in the direction of the wind they set a zigzag course, sailing across the wind at alternating angles. That procedure was called tacking.”] tacking [/tooltip] we frequently went within 2 or 3 miles of Kangaroo Island & as the weather seemed peculiarly inviting some of the young men of our party expressed a desire to land & walk across the Island by Capt Sutherland’s track. (The men resident in the Island assert that Sutherland never was across the island at all). Their wish being communicated to Capt Duff, he at once gave his consent, & a boat was lowered to convey them to the shore. Finding it impracticable to land at the gully discovered by Dillon, on the western coast, they pulled round to Cape Borda were [sic] the pedestrians were put ashore. In the evening the boat party returned bringing with them a rock-fish of most splendid colours, a pied shag, a boatswain, & an oyster-catcher! In the evening the wind freshened from the west giving us the anticipation of a speedy conclusion to our voyage.
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Wednesday 2 November 1836
NOVEMBER 2.-This morning most of the passengers were up at 5 o’clock to take a view of Althorpe Island as we passed it. It appeared like a huge rock. It is supposed to be only an eruption in the sea. At about 10 o’clock we entered Nepean Bay. The flag was hoisted and the guns were fired to announce our approach. Soon after a boat with the mate and four sailors went on shore, and immediately returned with another boat, in which was a gentleman of the name of Stephens, who came out in a vessel called the Duke of York, and which was rowed by four men. One of them, Nathaniel Thomas, had been a resident on the island many years, but his appearance, I thought, was more like that of a savage than an Englishman. This man, by some mischance, fell overboard, and as the tide was running strong at the time he was carried some distance from the vessel before assistance could be rendered. Although he could swim well enough, he was watched by those on board with considerable anxiety on account of the sharks, which were known to be numerous. An oar, however, was thrown to him, on which he got astride till the boat reached him, and when he came again on the deck he shook himself as a dog does when just out of the water, and took no more notice of the matter.
At about 2 o’clock this day a party of six, including two of our young men engaged as printers, set off in a boat for the shore, furnished with four days’ provisions, to walk across the island (about fifty miles) and meet the ship on the other side, whither we were going.
At 4 o’clock we came within a mile of the shore; and soundings were taken-twenty-six fathoms and a fine, gravelly bottom. The day was fine and the sea calm. The boat did not return till nearly 9 o’clock, in consequence of the passengers not being able for a long time to find a landing-place on that side of the island; but when it began to grow dark their prolonged stay excited alarm, especially as there were five gentlemen in the boat (three of them married) besides the mate of the vessel, who went to see them safely on shore. At about 8 o’clock, therefore, the captain ordered a gun to be fired and a light in the shrouds was hoisted as a signal and guide. The crew also gave three cheers, and the echo of the cannon and the cheers of the men resounded from the opposite shore and gave additional effect to the beauty of the scene, for although the moon had not risen the evening was remarkably clear and serene, and the stars glittered over our heads in millions. At length our fears were relieved by the flash and report of a gun, and soon after another, and at last we discovered the boat approaching the vessel with all those safe who meant to return and one of the adventurers, whose heart failed him when they reached the unknown shore. The other six, all young men, were left to proceed on their way as they best could. Their names were:- Slater, a surgeon; Osborne, a well-educated young man apprenticed to Mr. Thomas as a printer; Fisher, engaged as a journeyman printer; Nantes, attached to Mr. Gouger (the Colonial Secretary) ; and Warren and Biggs, engaged by Mr. Hallett. We were naturally anxious, and could not help feeling somewhat uneasy at their setting out on such a romantic expedition, especially on account of Osborne, who was an amiable young man and a general favourite, and whose father, residing in London, had consigned him to our care. They had agreed to take their guns, expecting to find some game, and Osborne having a double-barrelled gun which was rather heavy, asked me to exchange it for the time for our single-barrelled one, and I did so accordingly. He and Slater were sworn friends, and the latter having the gun in his hands just as they were going to step into the boat, I said to him, half in jest,
“Don’t you lose that gun, Mr. Slater.”
“Ah, Madam,” said he in his hasty way (he was an Irishman), ” I will lose my life first.”
“Oh,” said I, laughing, ” I did not mean that. I only intended to caution you against laying it down under bushes, where you might not find it again.”
…
At night we saw so large a fire on the island that it reminded me of the burning of the Parliament Houses, which took place in October the year before. We were told that it was the brushwood, to which the islanders often set fire in order to clear the ground.
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Wednesday 2 November 1836
All landed safe at Nepean Bay, November 2nd. Beautiful
country, but sandy, plenty of wood, but as hard as iron, no fruit
to be seen, but currants growing on a large tree. All is mutiny
among our labourers, the greatest dissatisfaction prevails, only one
store erected, that a Booth from the Crown and Anchor tavern,
and part of another. Provisions enormous and just risen. Flour
quite musty, no water near our settlement. 5 men go daily to fetch
it, and that only to the extent of 2 quarts each person daily – have
bored and dug for water without success, if rough weather comes
on, we shall die of thirst. Captain Nelson, having introduced
spirits, men are continually drunk, and will not be spoken to on
business. Not a drop of Beer under 16d. per Bottle – salt Beef &
pork 6 ½ & 7 ½ p. lb – Tea 5/- – Treacle 4 ½ – no sugar – Flour
3d Butter ¼ – [tooltip color=”grey” text=”fir or pine board”] Deal Board [/tooltip]6d per foot … The ground is a
complete sandbank I fear nothing will grow – not a blade of grass
to be seen, not a Kangaroo on the Island. The natives are very
peaceable on the main land and do anything for a biscuit, except
at Port Lincoln, where they seem very ferocious.
All the vessels sent out arrived safe, but with loss of nearly all
cattle and livestock.
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Wednesday 2 November 1836
Wednesday Decr 2. [sic] Drew up an act to regulate & settle disputes between
Master and Servant, which I read to the Governor who found it to be the
“very law he had determined to make as he told Lord Glenelg and
Mr Stephens long ago”. Of course he means to claim credit for all the
legislation. I find notwithstanding this amiable intention that unless
I do things myself, though they are not in any shape within my
province, there is no chance of anything but confusion & disorder
to be expected on our arrival. The Governor cannot write two sentences
of grammar or common sense, that is the simple truth; but
I will not allow the chance of his appropriating my labours to his
own in the higher quarters to stand in the way of good
which order & sound legislation from the commencement are
likely to ensure. In this view I am preparing the law for the constit-
-ution of the Supreme Court & the Courts of General or Quarter
and Petty Sessions. The Governor has given me a long list of Magis-
-trates which he intends to include in the first Commission
of the Peace. Among them I observe the names of the Harbour
Master, the Store Keeper and of two young men Hutchinson &
Strangways on board this ship whose only claim to the honour
seems their being the lovers of two of his daughters. One of them
has been a subaltern in a marching regiment and is a surly
empty pated fool; the other held ‘rank’ in Don Pedro’s service. The
manners language & conversation of both are of the lowest & most
trifling character – fitter for the backwoods of Ohio or the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”edge of St Giles, a slum area of London”] purlieus
of St. Giles [/tooltip]than for civilised society or the duties of the Magistracy.
If this man has his way we shall soon be in a precious state.
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Tuesday 1 November 1836
NOVEMBER 1.- At 4 o’clock this morning there was a beautiful view of Kangaroo Island, about ten miles distant. I was on deck at 6 o’clock. The sun had just risen with great splendour, and its rays then wholly obscured any sight of land, At 8 o’clock land again became visible, and at about noon was plainly observed.
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Thursday 1 November 1836
Decr 1st We have long been anxiously expecting a visit from the natives & have been somewhat uneasy at their lengthened absence, more particularly as 2 natives had been sent by land from Rapid Bay to inform the other tribes of our pacific intentions. To-day however two were brought into our settlement. Mr Williams (Mr Ward’s partner) while out shooting saw a man & boy making a fire; their backs being towards him, he got near to them, without their discovering him. When about 20 yds off he made a noise to attract their notice – not however without having previously taken the precaution of putting a bullet into each barrel of his gun. They immediately seized their spears, but as Mr Williams held up a piece of biscuit to them to show his good humour to them, & burst out laughing they put down their weapons & approached him. Patting on the back & other cordialities now commenced, & he at length persuaded them to follow him. On reaching his tent he gave them sugar, biscuit, and tobacco. Being now quite at their ease he brought them on to us, & having had intimation of their approach I went to met them. The man appeared to be about 30 years of age & the boy (who was his son) about 8, both were intelligent looking, and as far as my knowledge of physionomy would carry me – anything but ferocious. As soon as they saw me they laughed, and patted me on the back, which ceremony I of course returned; but wishing to make them comprehend as completely as possible that we were friendly with all the tribe I took a stick & holding it above my head broke it saying “Wambara” “Wambara” “No good” “No good” upon which the man seemed perfectly delighted, & with the greatest earnestness embraced me. The “Wombara” is a weapon used in native warfare. We then went to the Stores & supplied them with a second-hand military coat, hat, & trousers, which wonderfully delighted them, & on a looking-glass being placed before them, they were almost convulsed with laughter. We then introduced a new wonder, a pipe, which was lighted by a burning glass. They looked above & below but seeing nothing but a piece of transparent substance in a wooden frame they seemed rather alarmed. On this I pointed to the Sun, then to the glass & tobacco, but the explanation was hardly complete before the savage patted his chest, in token of comprehension, & looked at each of the party as if impressed with awe at our superior knowledge. We now took them to the tent & introduced them to the ladies of the party. On approaching my tent they were at first struck with the goats, but being anxious they should form a correct idea of the laws of “Meum” & “Tuam” I called the goats & fed them with biscuit, & by signs showed that they belonged to Me & Me alone & ended by giving the natives some biscuit to feed the goats, fowls etc xxxxx If these natives be a fair specimen, there was nothing to fear from a residence amongst them, but having heard much of their ferocity I must be cautious in giving a contrary opinion, as care may be required in dealing with them. At all events great praise is due to Mr Williams in his first treatment of them.
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Tuesday 1 November 1836
1 November-Calm and fine. The men employed constructing a store-hut – myself with chart.
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Tuesday 1 November 1836
…The weather has been delightful. A great number of Porpoises & not less than 20 whales were observed from the Ship some of the latter came within 15 yds of us; they were generally of the spermaciti kind and as usual infested with barnacles!
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Tuesday 1 November 1836
Tuesday, Novr 1. Light winds & cloudy. Head S.E. Wind Northly. Made all sail. Noon. Mode & fine. Miles run, 130 + 9486 = 9616. Lat. 35E26′ So. Longe 7E11′ East. Cape Lagullas N.81EE. 636′. P.M. Fresh breezes & cloudy. 7. Shortened sail. Midt. Rainy wr.
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Monday 31 October 1836
31 October-Employed all day in my hut constructing my chart, and the men all day in building a store-house. Very variable climate; at six exceedingly cold, at eight still colder, and cold all night.
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Sunday 30 October 1836
Octr 30th This morning brought us within sight of land, about noon the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”First officer directly coming under the command of the captain. Ships’ Mates were responsible for supervising watches, crew, navigation and safety equipment, and sometimes even served as the ship’s doctor.”] first mate saw from the mast-head Cape Wiles & the land towards Thistles Island, all which at length became evident from the deck, appearing to be 35 miles distant. The near approach to land has caused considerable excitement on board.
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Sunday 30 October 1836
30 October-Very cold. Captain Lipson and Mr Pullen left at six p.m. to return to Nepean Bay; very cold all night, exceeding cold air.
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Monday 31 October 1836
Nothing worth noting has occurred since I last wrote. My time has been employed chiefly as follows. The mornings, in shooting with Claughton, and my evenings in reading a little, washing a little and idling a great deal. Pullen came over in the surveying boat on Saturday bringing with him Captain Lipson, the Harbour-Master. They returned yesterday. This morning I was up to my eyes in flour making a pudding with birds shot by Claughton and myself. It is my first attempt and is intended for tomorrow’s dinner – “The proof of the pudding will be etc.”
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Monday 31 October 1836
Monday Octr 31. Drew up to day the first legislative measure for His
Excellency’s consideration – namely to impose certain duties on ardent
spirits. I suspect till we can brew our own beer we shall be obliged to
allow small rations of the “horrid poison” to our labourers in which case
therefore I have endeavoured by imposing a duty of 7/6 per gallon to
avoid making it a heavy tax upon labour. I mean however to propose
that grog shop keepers shall pay a heavy annual license – say £30 or
even £50; & by adopting the act against Tippling make single glasses or
bottles of spirits procurable only with money [tooltip color=”grey” text=”immediate payment”] “on the nail” [/tooltip] & as dear as we can
I feel however that no legislation can destroy the evil; all we can hope to
effect is to render it as innocuous as circumstances will permit. Our
voyage proceeds favorably we are already 3000 miles from Rio…
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Monday 31 October 1836
OCTOBER 31.-This morning the point of Spencer’s Gulf was clearly visible. As the wind was contrary we could not make towards it, but steered away from it, and in a few hours it was again lost to sight
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Sunday 30 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 30. Modte & fine, Head from South to S.E.b E.
Wind N.Ely. Performed Divine Service. Noon. Do Wr.
Miles run, 75 + 9243 = 9318. Late 35E27′ So. Longe 1E35′ Et.
P.M. Fresh breezes & rainy. Head S.E. b E. Wind Northerly. Short-
-en’d sail. 6. Light winds & vble. Midnight. Fresh fair wind.
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Monday 31 October 1836
Monday, Octr 31. Fresh breezes & squally. Wind West. Course S.E.b E. 8. Mode & fine. Made sail. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 168 + 9318 = 9486. Lat. 35E57′ So. Longe 4E49′ Et. P.M. Light winds & fine. Sunset. Shortened sail. Midt. Do Wr.
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Sunday 30 October 1836
OCTOBER 30.-This day, Sunday, at about 2 o’clock, land was seen from the masthead, and in the evening it was distinctly seen from deck.
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Saturday 29 October 1836
Saturday, Octr 29. Moderate & cloudy. Head from E.N.E. to N.N.E. Wind Vb1e. 6.30. Tacked. Noon. Calm. Miles run, 90 + 9153 = 9243. Lat. 34E56′ So. Longe 0.23′ East. Therr 56E. P.M. Light variable winds. Head from S.S.W. to S.E.b E.
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Saturday 29 October 1836
Hobart Town, Oct. 29th 1836.
My Dearest Mary,
I have at length an opportunity of writing you, by the ship, Elphenston, to inform you that we have all arrived safe at our port; the first part of the passage till nearly as far as the Cape, we had very fine weather, never once having ocasion to take a reef in, but the remainder just nothing but dreadful gale but we did not suffer any loss, she being a very fine sea boat, and I made Kangaroo Island to the hour, the other two ships the Duke of York & Lady Mary Pelham, having left England one ten & the other fourteen days before me, arrived but five & ten days before me, so I think I don well in so small a vessel, particularly as both those vessels where fast sailers having been both Packets, the two Commissioners Ships we beat one fourteen days & the other six weeks, I was three weeks short of four months from Dartmouth, nothing particularly happen’d on the passage except one of our women passengers jumpt overboard in the heat of passion, the vessel was going at the rate of six knots at the time, I put the vessel about emidiately & stood towards her & succeeded in picking her up just as she was going down, she soon recover’d but blam’d me for saving her, she afterwards refused to take any food or nurishment till she became really ill and …………….. leaving a husband and four young children one not then ween’d, but it was a great blessing to them all, for she was a most horrid wretch, all the rest I landed safe & well satisfied, but not so with either of the other vessels for they appear’d to have had nothing but quarreling all the passage out, and on shore after they landed, & the crews of the vessels in a very insebordinate state, till my arrival, and I soon set them to wrights, after having set them in Irons and it was out of the Manningers power to rule them, ther being no Gov. nor any power to inforce obedience, I on the contrary have not had the least dificulty with any one on board, after I had restored them all to good order & disiplene, the first Mirical I don was to join together two couple in holy Matrimony, one was no less a person than Mr. Stephens, the Maninger, after which I set about exploring the country, but found Kangaroo Island, a most wretched & barren place not worth anything, & feeling uneasy at the appearance of future prospects, I took a whaleboat, mand and arm’d it well, & went over to the main, which is but twelve miles across, I proceeded up the gulf of St Vincents to the distance of from 100 miles or more, landing ocasionally and walk’d inland, & I must confess, that in all my travels I never saw so fine a country before & abundance of fresh water, and but few natives, not having fell in with more than eight in all that extent of country; on my return I found the vessel nearly ready for sea again and having made my arrangements, and occording to my advice we proceeded for Hobart Town for sawd timber & such articles as I saw them most in need off, we had a very good passage of six days and had scearsly got in the river before Hobart Town was viseted with a continuation of most terrific gales for three weeks, such as has not been before experienced in the memory of any one in the Island, thank god is was now my watch below, on my arrival I was most heartely wellcom’d by every person I met…
…
Robert & George is going to school to morrow to Mr. Giblins Father, a very good school at New Town where I have got them to take both, through favour, for fifty pounds a year, I have provided them well with everything, & I am happy to say they are fine Boys & loved by everyone who knows them, I have great hopes in them, & I trust in God, that my dear girls will prove a comfort to us also – I hope & trust you are all well in health, and that you have been abble to mannage to rub through. I have wrote to Mr Angas who I have no doubt will render you every assistance in his power & advance you what money you may require to fit yourself & children out little respectable, and also procure you a passage out, either to Kangaroo Island or Van Diemens Land, but I think you had best if possible endeavour to get to Hobart Town first, & I will see you shall be provided for on your arrivel, but should you arrive at Kangaroo Island first, you will find yourself well received, I shall have a house built, and a garden for you before you arrive; endeavour to provide yourself & children as respectable clothing as your means will enable you, I am thank God in better health than ever I was & getting very lusty, & I have every prospect of dooing well, having an oppertunety of making a good deal trading backwards & forwards to the —. Mrs. Stephens is inclined to afford me every oppertunety of adding to my stock, therefore with the blessings of God I trust we shall yet see better days, & God send you safe to me again, The best month for you to leave England so as to insure fine weather will be in the months of June or July, I hope your brother & all his family are all well and in prosperety, I have wrot to them, & I hope & trust Mother & Eliza with her children are also well & that you are friendly with all for belive me my dear Mary that it is far more pleasing to make friends than enemys, I sepose Parnell is dead, & I trust he died a christian, & confeced his falshoods, should your Mother & sister come out to this part I will do all I can for them, give my love to them, also give my love to Mr. & Mrs. Barrow, Carters, Quillys, Ann & all inquiring friends – Mrs. Lord lives in the country and I am informed she looks as well as ever, Should you see Mr. Simpson the Father of my secont mate give my best respects to him & his family & tell him I have great pleasure in giving a good account of his son, he behaves himself mutch to my satisfaction, he has been very attentive to my two Boys, in teaching them to read and write; & I shall not fail in advancing so soon as I see a good oppertunity.
You must take cear to have a few comforts with you when you leave, independant of the ship, as you are an old Traveler you are well aquainted with what is necessary, be sure you take plenty eggs with you for the children, you see that I have not been afraid to face my enemys, but I assure you that I have not one is thes whole place, & to prove that my credit is good, I have sold Bills … of £200 for articles purchased her for our settlement, and it will I trust convince those persons who gave your Mother such favourable account of me, that I am not afraid to meet any one in this world that I have seen before, I hope Marian is a good girl and is kind & obedient to you, for she ought to be a patern to the rest, I have no fear of Georgiana , give my love to them all & kiss them all for their Father. I hope little Tom is growing a fine boy as will Isabella, Polly, & dear little Stewart. I hope you have not neglected poor Polly lip, Robert & George send their dear love to you & their sisters & brothers, Robert never hears your name mentioned but he crys bitterly, poor George he often talks of you but of course have not that sense of feeling, he is the fiddle of the vessel, once more give my love to all inquiring friend and accept the love of
Your ever Afectionad Husband,
George Martin.
Mr. & Mrs. Bascombe sends
their best respects
God bless you & send you soon to me.
Bring the certificate of your Marriage & the births
of Marian & Thomas, for should anything happen to me
you can get your Dower of that 800 acres of land which
is now become very valuable.
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Saturday 29 October 1836
Saturday Oct 29th Chandler has been assisting me all this Week with Stock and occasionally at the new Fence Powell did not go to Work untill Thursday On Tuesday last, two of the So Down Ewes, strayed away and were lost untill This Day, when we found them in the Wood near to the Beach
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Saturday 29 October 1836
29 October-Very sudden changes, hot and cold alternately, with showers. At five p.m. Captain Lipson and Mr Pullen arrived in the hatch-boat, from Nepean Bay. I wrote to Captain Rolls of the Cygnet to receive on board Captain Lipson and his family and proceed to Port Lincoln.
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Saturday 29 October 1836
OCTOBER 29.-This day it was still squally. Several whales seen; one came alongside and passed under the bow of the ship, spouting up water.
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Friday 28 October 1836
28 October-Light breezes and rainy.Employed building a store-house. The air very cold all day and night.
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Friday 28 October 1836
OCTOBER 28.-We had for several days been going on so steadily, and yet making good way, that had it not been for a little occasional motion we might almost have fancied ourselves on land; at least, those of us who were below and at work, as I was; but this evening the wind rose suddenly, […]
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Friday 28 October 1836
Friday, Octr 28. More moderate & cloudy. A baby born this morng.
Set tgt sails. Noon. Modte & fine. Miles run, 173 + 8980 =
9153. Lat. 35E49′ So. Longe 0E40′ Wt. Water on board, 100 tons.
P.M. Fresh breezes & fine. Wind S.E. Head East, ENE, &c &c
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Thursday 27 October 1836
27 October-People employed in cutting wood for a store-house, and in various jobs.
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Thursday 27 October 1836
Thursday, Octr 27, Fresh gales & squally. Head S.E.b E. Wind from
N.W. to West. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 199 + 8781, =
8980. Lat. 35E42′ So. Longe 3E46′ Wt. P.M. 2.30 A heavy sea struck the
starbd quarter boat & stove her. Wind round to S.W. At 5
saw a whale about 40 feet long. Furled mizen topsail &
mainsail: down topgalt yards in the forenoon.
Evening. Strong breezes & heavy squalls occasionally. Wind West.
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Wednesday 26 October 1836
26 October-TheRapid sailed for Nepean Bay. Party on shore employed in moving stores from the beach.
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Wednesday 26 October 1836
Wednesday, Octr 26. Fresh breezes & squally. Wind from No to NNW. Co E.S.E. Miles run, 185 + 8596 = 8781. Lat. obs. 35E14′ So. Longe 7E24′. Wt. Noon. Do Weather. Squared the yards, furled spanker, down royal yards. P.M. Fresh gales and squally. Wind N.W. The coldest weather since we left England.
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Tuesday 25 October 1836
Tuesday Octr 25. A long sederunt with Capt. Hindmarsh in reference to his
powers as Governor. He maintains that all appointments are in his hands,
& that in no case he is obliged to submit any such to the Council even for
their advice. I have told him plainly my opinion, which is that subject to his
right of proposing, & the power of pardoning or remitting the sentences of
convicts, all executive as well as legislative acts must be done by him in Council
By the Royal instructions he has power to carry his propositions into law even
against the opinion & voice of the “whole or major part” of his advisers – being
obliged however in such a case to assign his reasons for so acting to the
Secretary of State at home – a check, which if not quite sufficient against
temporary acts of folly or despotism is at least fully so as regards their per-
-manence. His Excellency scarcely seemed pleased with my frankness;
but I only gave my honest opinion & not before it was asked, and am
totally indifferent as to its palatableness. He says he is determined to
act singly and uncontrolled – that he has Lord Glenelg’s & Mr Stephen’s
authority for so doing and will not, to use his own words “abate an
inch of his Master’s prerogative” – forgetting perhaps that His Majesty
has in the instance expressly delegated his authority, prerogative & all
to others. But it is in vain to argue with him on this point, or indeed
on any other. He will however probably come or be brought to his senses
ere he be called upon to act.
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Tuesday 25 October 1836
Tuesday, Octr 25. Moderate breeze & fine wr. Wind No. Head E.S.E. Out 1st reef of maintopsail, set royals, lower, topmt & tgt studg sails on larbd side. A great many birds in Co chiefly the blue peterel. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 147 + 3449 = 8596. Lat. obs. 34E47′ So. Longe 70E56′ Wt. […]
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Sunday 23 October 1836
OCTOBER 23.-The wind much calmer. At 2 o’clock we came abreast Cape Leeuwin, the first pomt of New Holland, having passed Swan River, but the land being a hundred and fifty miles distant, of course we saw nothing of it.
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Sunday 23 October 1836
23 October-Sunday. The Rapid arrived with Mr Kingston from Nepean Bay; employed this afternoon getting things on shore. Rain great part of the day, with strong breezes.
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Sunday 23 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 23. Light airs & hazy. Divine Service was in
– terrupted by a sudden increase of wind & wet,
which rendered it necessary to furl royals & tgt sails,
& take in two reefs in the topsails…
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Monday 24 October 1836
OCTOBER 24.-Again a delightful morning and very mild, but showery in the afternoon; not making much progress. This evening the sun set with remarkable brilliancy, and at 9 o’clock there was an eclipse of the moon, of which we had a distinct view.
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Monday 24 October 1836
Oct. 24 Nothing particular happened, save that one night we had a perfect gale, which would have driven an old ship to pieces -the last seven days we have sailed 1,500 miles, and are now 150 miles from New Holland and all in good spirits at the idea of landing, laid too 3 days, landed […]
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Sunday 23 October 1836
[Sunday 23 October?]
On Sunday morning Colonel Light, Pullen and I started on a walk towards Cape Jervis, but seeing from one of the hills that the ‘Rapid’ had just come into the Bay, we returned and found that she had brought over a great number of the Surveyors and Labourers with stores which we have been busy landing ever since. The Brig started this morning to bring the rest of the Surveyors and some of the females from the Island. When she returns the party will be divided – some remaining here, and the others going up to Holdfast Bay, the name given to our last anchorage, from our having ridden out two very serious gales there. With regard to myself, the present arrangements are that I remain with the party here and I have consequently got all my traps on shore. The heat in the day is excessive, and the flies, the greatest pests imaginable, crawling incessantly to the eyes, and if not immediately dislodged, blowing there.
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Sunday 23 October 1836
Sunday Octr 23. Service to-day upon deck, indecorously interrupted by
the Captain who made a vast commotion in adjusting the sails when
there was certainly no pressing necessity for any thing of the sort.
The people were dismissed; but in five minutes he ordered them all
to be summoned by the bell: Mr Howard however declined to proceed
with the sermon and merely went through the remaining prayers. This
abrupt & irreverent conduct has created much discussion though very
little difference of opinion. It is especially strange that he should have
chosen such a time for making or shortening sail, when his favorite
position is that the fast or slow progress of a ship does not depend on
the number of sails set. Unfortunately for us this is the theory he in-
-variably puts in practice & yesterday we had for six hours the
precise amount & no more canvas spread under a moderate &
favorable breeze, than the ship bore under the heavy gale of the night.
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Monday 24 October 1836
Monday, Octr 24. Fresh gales & squally. 4. More moderate. out 3d reefs of topsails. 6. In 3d reefs of topsails. Noon. Fine fresh breeze. Miles run, 144 + 8305 = 8449. Lat. obs. 35E9′ South. Longe 13E47′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. Out 3d & 2d reefs of main topsail, & 3d reef of foretopsail: […]
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Saturday 22 October 1836
OCTOBER 22.-It was now four weeks since we left Simon’s Bay, and the wind, having been for the most part favourable, everyone was elated with the hope that another week would terminate the voyage.
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Saturday 22 October 1836
22 October-Hard rain almost the whole day. At work on my chart.
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Saturday 22 October 1836
Saturday, Octr 22. Light winds & hazy. Head E.S.E. Wind N.N.E.
Miles run, 124 + 8122 = 8246. Late 34E26′ So. Longe 18E13′ Wt.
P.M. Light winds & hazy wr. Lowered the cutter to pick up two
Mother Carey’s chickens, & a Cape pigeon which had been
shot: the albatross was too strong to be affected by the shot.
[tooltip color=”grey” text=”A dance performed by four couples. It became popular in England after 1813.”] Quadrilles [/tooltip] & a country dance on the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Technically called a stern deck, the poop is an exposed partial deck on the stern (rear) of a ship. It forms the roof of the stern or ‘poop’ cabin.”] poop [/tooltip] until 8 P.M.
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Saturday 22 October 1836
Saturday, 22nd October.
It rained hard the whole of last night and occasionally this forenoon. Until the tents were well wet the rain filtered thro’ them as thro’ a sieve so that our beds were rather damp. I went out alone with my gun after breakfast till dinnertime but killed nothing. After dinner I went with Colonel Light and Pullen to fish at the stream and we were successful. We sent our dogs out this morning and one of them was dreadfully torn by a kangaroo. I sewed the wound up and the poor creature seems much easier.
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Saturday 22 October 1836
Saturday Oct 22d The two Men have been employ’d all this Week
at making a new substantial Fence round the Paddocks and
attending to the Stock _________ On Tuesday last I
had all the So Down Sheep shear’d and gave them a complete
dressing with Ointment, as they were very bad indeed of the Scab,
but think they are now cured
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Friday 21 October 1836
Octr 21st During the last week the weather has been squally & cold, sometimes 42E on the deck; several times the ship having been under reef-top sails, and our windows furnished with [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A strong shutter or plate fastened over a ship’s porthole or cabin window in stormy weather.”] dead lights[/tooltip]. The distance however these winds have driven us is remarkable; during the last 6 days we have sailed in a direct line to the Colony 1221 miles! a run exceeding any which Capt Duff states he has ever before had.
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Friday 21 October 1836
Friday, Octr 21. Moderate breezes and cloudy weather. Head E.S.E. Wind N.W. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 153 + 7969 = 8122. Lat.e 34E4′ So. Longe 20E43′ Wt. P.M. Moderate & cloudy. Wind N.N.W.
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Friday 21 October 1836
OCTOBER 21.-The long boat repaired and painted, and preparation commenced for going on shore.
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Friday 21 October 1836
Friday, 21st October. Washing clothes all the forenoon – fished at the stream this afternoon – heavy rain, wind North.
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Friday 21 October 1836
21 October-Employed these two days in my surveys of the coast, drawings, and reports. All this day changeable; at night hard rain.
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Thursday 20 October 1836
…I have been engaged with one of the natives this evening learning the language and teaching him in return words of English. They are very apt at pronouncing words but forget them the next minute. Jacob is still very ill.
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Thursday 20 October 1836
Thursday, Octr 20. Moderate breezes, rain at times. Head E.S.E. Wind N.W. Miles run 762 + 7807 = 7969. Lat.e 33E24′ So. Longe 23E36′ Wt. Ship rolling deep. P.M. Do Wr. Got the plants off the poop to ease the ship a little. Sunset. Modte & fine.
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Thursday 20 October 1836
OCTOBER 20.-This day the thermometer was reduced to freezing-point.
When we left London we had on board a young man of the name of Constable, who acted as second mate, but for some reason, which I do not know, he was left at the Cape of Good Hope… The absence of this young man from among the officers of the ship was regretted by many of the passengers, as he was very civil and obliging. The chief mate was just the contrary, and seemed to take a delight in annoying the intermediate passengers whenever he had an opportunity to do so… Among other instances in which he displayed his authority was that of removing the step-ladder, preventing us from going on deck, or occasionally keeping us there during his pleasure when we wished to return to our cabins. It so happened that the trapdoor by which access was obtained to that part of the hold where the ship’s stores were kept was on a level with the floor of my cabin, and only a few feet from it. The ladder by which we ascended to the deck rested on it, and was consequently removed and generally drawn up whenever the storekeeper had occasion to descend to the hold for supplies… It so happened that whenever the aforesaid store was opened we were almost sure to be half-smothered with dust. Moreover, ·a considerable quantity of straw and chaff were generally left for anyone to clear away who chose to do so, but being nearer to us than to any of the others, of course it fell to our share to dispose of it in the best way we could. This we did for a long time without complaint, but one day, a larger quantity of rubbish than usual being deposited close to our cabin door, and seeing no reason why those who left it there should not clear it away or cause it to be done, I went on deck with the intention of asking one of the sailors to remove it. Meeting Mr. Smith, I drew his attention to it, and requested that he should send someone with a broom for that purpose. Not only did he peremptorily refuse to send anyone, but replied to my request with the most insulting language, insomuch that I threatened if he behaved to me in that manner again I would complain to the captain. He told me I was welcome to do that, and, pointing to the quarter-deck, said, “There is the captain. Tell him what you please.” But the captain was not there at the time, or I would have applied to him immediately. Determined, however, to put a stop, if possible, to the mate’s insolence, I resolved to take his advice and appeal to the captain as the only way. Accordingly, the next day I addressed the following letter to Captain Duff:-
Sir-As I presume you will not knowingly suffer anyone on board this vessel to be in any way ill-treated, I consider myself justified in stating to you the particulars of an occurrence which happened a few days ago, in which I was grossly insulted by Mr. Smith, the chief mate, and which likewise led to an altercation last night on the deck, the circumstances of which I think you ought to be acquainted with. But before I proceed I beg leave to state that the complaint I am now about to make has no allusion whatever on my part to anything that passed on a former occasion, nor did I give Mr. Smith the slightest provocation to treat me in the manner he did, but I cannot, in justice to myself and my family, tamely submit to such repeated insults as we have experienced from him since we have been on board this vessel. You must be well aware that all those in the intermediate cabins, ourselves in particular, are greatly annoyed by the frequent opening of the hatchway leading to the hold, and that at all hours of the day, by which our ingress and egress are not only often prevented, but we must also put up with the dust and litter proceeding from the stores, with many other inconveniences, to which even the steerage passengers are not subjected, but all this we should not complain of, knowing it is unavoidable, if we could meet with that civility and attention which, as respectable persons, we think ourselves entitled to, for in this respect I speak in the name of all concerned, though the ungentlemanly behaviour it produced from the chief mate was directed to me alone. It happened, then, a few mornings since that the storekeeper had left a more than usual quantity of dust and dirt, which, as usual, was left for us to clear away, and, being opposite to my cabin, it was not very pleasing or agreeable. Mr. Thomas, therefore, sent a message to the mate requesting a broom and mop to enable us to clean it, but his answer was that he had neither, and if Mr. Thomas wanted them he might fetch them himself. This passed, and we took no further notice, being compelled to let the litter remain till a short time after, when I went on deck, and seeing Mr. Smith close by I pointed down the steps and requested that he would send someone to sweep away the dirt there, to which, with a scornful air, he replied, “Pray, Mrs. Thomas, who do you expect to clean it?” I said it certainly was not my place to do it, nor did I suppose that anyone there considered it their place to do so, that if we swept our own cabins it was surely sufficient without cleaning after the ship’s crew. He then asked me where our servants were, saying that we had too many servants, and if I expected anyone on board the vessel to be my servant or to do anything for me I was mistaken, to which I replied that it was not my servants’ place any more than mine to clean after his men, and supposing that we had brought no servants on board, how was it to be done then? “Done,” says he; “why, do it yourselves, to be sure.” This was his precise answer, to which I replied that I would not be insulted by anyone, and that if he behaved to me in that manner again I would complain to the captain. “There is the captain,” said he, “on the quarter-deck. Go and complain to him.” If you, Sir, had been there at the time, I would certainly then have made you acquainted with his conduct, as I cannot suppose that you or any gentleman in the cabin would suffer his wife to be insulted. Of course, I related what had passed to Mr. Thomas, and in consequence of Mr. Smith’s refusing to allow such a trifling request as mine to be complied with he forbade his men to assist the crew in any way whatever, which before they had done on all occasions, not only with his sanction, but particular desire, and he always felt a pleasure whenever their services were available in any way. Yesterday morning the same annoyance again occurred from the stores, when a quantity of chaff and straw was left and the same neglect ensued as before with regard to clearing it away. Therefore, when Mr. Thomas saw his men pulling the rope (for it seems Mr. Smith had asked them if they meant to mind what that foolish man said), he again forbade them, which he would not have done, notwithstanding his previous orders, could we be treated with common civility. But Mr. Smith has taken every opportunity to annoy and insult the passengers in this part of the vessel from the day we embarked to the present time. As another instance of his discourteous behaviour last night he prohibited the cook from baking any more bread for the intermediate berths, a luxury which we have seldom enjoyed since we came on board, but there being two loaves in the oven at the time, one belonging to me and the other to Mrs. Lewis, he compelled the cook to turn them out half-baked, and, of course, spoiled; but as there can be no reason why others should suffer on my account, and as I consider myself more especially the party aggrieved, I have taken upon myself to state these particulars, and now appeal to your justice as commander of this vessel and to your generosity as a man whether you will suffer such conduct to pass unnoticed. I am, Sir, your obedient servant, MARY THOMAS.
This letter was politely answered by Captain Duff assuring me that I did him justice in assuming that he would not knowingly suffer anyone on board the vessel to be uncivilly treated while he had the command of it, and that he would take care that there would be no cause for complaint in future. Whether Mr. Smith received a reprimand or not I do not know, but the next morning, to my surprise, he inquired if I wished first to go on deck, and added that the ladder would be replaced as soon as possible. From that day his churlishness seemed in a great measure to have left him, at least as far as the passengers were concerned, for I am not aware of anything unpleasant occurring afterwards to the end of the voyage.
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Thursday 20 October 1836
20 October-Went with Messrs Pullen and Woodforde over the hills, to the next valley, and spent the day in looking over the country and taking a few angles.
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Wednesday 19 October 1836
19 October-Light breezes and fine weather; employed in writing and drawing for the Commissioners.
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Wednesday 19 October 1836
Wednesday, Octr 19. Moderate breezes, squally at times. Head ESE. Wind West. Ship rolling very deep. Made & shortened sail occly. Miles run, 186 + 7621 = 7807. Lat. 32E50′ So. Longe 26E27′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. Sunset. Showery. In fore tgt sail, and mizen topsail.
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Wednesday 19 October 1836
9 p.m. Wednesday, 19th October.
After our walk yesterday Jacob who was much fatigued and heated – contrary to my most urgent advise [advice] bathed in the fresh water stream which is extremely cold and in consequence is now confined to his bed suffering from a fever. I have not strayed far from the tents today but after the heat was over I again accompanied Colonel Light with Pullen to fish. Those we caught last evening were dressed for breakfast and proved extremely good tho’ small, and we have been equally successful this evening. The difference between the temperature of the mornings, evenings and mid-day is excessive. On Monday the range of the Thermometer in the tents was from 520 to 1050 .
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Tuesday 18 October 1836
Tuesday, 18th October.
The weather today is extremely warm and sultry – thermometer in the tent 100. Stevens [Stephens] and party left us this morning for Kangaroo Island after which I went out with my gun and Jacob and killed a brace of quail. We sent our dogs out with two of the native men this morning and they have just returned with a fine kangaroo. This is the third we have had since we encamped here. Colonel Light and I took our rods and lines down to the stream and caught five dogfish in less than two hours.
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Tuesday 18 October 1836
18 October-Very sultry and unpleasant weather, at night pleasant weather.
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Tuesday 18 October 1836
Tuesday, Octr 18. Fresh breezes & squally. Steering E.S.E. Wind right aft. Rolling deep. Furled mizen topsail. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 171 + 7450 = 7621. Lat. 32E6′ So. Longe 30E1′ West. P.M. Do Wr. In ftgt sail. Heavy squall during the night.
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Sunday 16 October 1836
Sunday, 16th October.
The Brig being detained till today by contrary and strong winds got under weigh at daybreak for Nepean Bay, the wind being having moderated and the weather being very fine. Some of the natives showed much ingenuity this afternoon capturing several very fine fish of the salmon species. They descried the shoal from their huts – a distance of half a mile and upon a signal given each man dashed into the water with a small net under his arm and each succeeded in bringing out two, three or four enclosed in it in an incredibly short space of time. They immediately brought them to our tents and gave them to us, but we only took three from them, in return for which Colonel Light intends to give them a meal of beef. This tribe, i.e. the Cape Jervis tribe, have evinced much goodwill and not the slightest disposition to thieve. They are very useful to us fetching our wood and working in any way with great cheerfulness. Yesterday they were all rigged out in new jackets and trowsers and are promised each a new cap if they remain faithful. Contrary to the opinion of most people I think that with kind treatment they may be as easily civilized as any other race of savages. One of them who has lived with Wallend [Henry Wallen], the Chief Sealer, on the Island speaks a little English and understands much more, so he is a good interpreter. He generally accompanies me out shooting and fetches the game out of the water as well as any dog. He is much pleased when I kill a bird on the wing and expresses his surprise by the exclamation ‘Nurra-dourra”.
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Sunday 16 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 16. Light winds & fine. Head E.S.E. Wind S.b W.
Out reefs, set tgt sails, royals, & tgt studg sails. 10.30. Divine
Service performed by Revd C. Howard. Noon. Do Wr, rather
cool weather. Miles run, 131 + 7214 = 7345. Lat. obs. 30E8′ So.
Longe 34E24′ Wt. P.M. Moderate breezes & fine, going 5 Knots.
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Sunday 16 October 1836
OCTOBER 16.-Still going on rapidly. During the last six days we have sailed no less than fourteen hundred miles, which the captain told me was the most he had ever made in the same space of time.
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Monday 17 October 1836
17 October-Light breezes and fine, with cold air. At six, thermometer 52, noon 95, at two p.m. 105, at four 85, at six 62, at nine 52.
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Monday 17 October 1836
Monday 17th The Whale boat with Mr Stevens & Morphett arrived having been detained at Yankalila by bad weather they were much pleased with the country the next day they left us for Kangaroo Isle.
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Sunday 16 October 1836
16 October-Fresh breezes and cloudy. At seven, the brig got under way, and reached over to the north-west; at eleven, the brig out of sight. All hands employed cutting wood, hut building, and various other jobs.
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Monday 17 October 1836
Monday, Octr 17. Variable wind & weather, rain occasionally. Out 2d reefs. Recommenced drilling the emigrants. Noon. Moderate & fine wr. Miles run, 105 + 7345 = 7450. Lat. obs. 30E30′ So. Longe 32E32′ W. P.M. Do Wr. Set royals, topmast & lower studg sails.
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Monday 17 October 1836
… Stevens [Stephens] and Morphett called in just at dinner-time on their return from the Gulf. They are now with us and remain tonight. Bathed this morning for the first time.
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Saturday 15 October 1836
Saturday, 15th October. Explored much the same as yesterday – went out with my gun in the morning but did not kill anything.
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Saturday 15 October 1836
Saturday, Octr 15. Fresh breezes & cloudy. Wind N.N.E. Course E.S.E. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 180 + 7034 = 7214. Lat. D.R. 29E 9′ So. Longe 36E41′. P.M. Rain Occasionally. 11. Wind shifted to the N.E.
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Saturday 15 October 1836
15 October-The few remaining things left yesterday were landed early this morning. In the forenoon, I was employed in arranging the disposition of tents, &c. And the afternoon writing to the Commissioners, with a mind worn down with anxiety in consequence of such repeated bad weather checking our work, and the dread of having a host of emigrants out before I knew where to land them.
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Saturday 15 October 1836
OCTOBER 15.-This day it was so cold that a slight shower of snow fell.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Friday, Octr 14. Fresh breezes & hazy. Wind N.E.b N. Head S.E.b E. Set & in tgt sails occasionally. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 180 + 6854 = 7034. Lat. obs. 27E30′ So. Longe 39E26′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Friday, 14th October.
We have been busy all day putting our tents to rights and have just returned from our native’s fire where they entertained us with their native dance called by them [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A word from the Sydney area, in common usage by the 1830s to refer to a dance or ceremony performed by Australian Aboriginal people.”]“Corroborey”[/tooltip]. It is chiefly characterized by feats of activity and violent contortions of muscle having nothing of grace in its composition. They dance it to a very monotonous harsh kind of vocal music, constantly repeating the same words. After the dance was over I played them an air on the flute. They seemed very much pleased but did not evince any great surprise.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Thursday 14th Visited by the Natives dist-
-ributed amongst them a few red jackets &
trousers old ordnance stores which we were furn-
-ished with for that purpose, they were very
much pleased by them.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Octr 14th The morning of the 12th opened brightly, but about 11 o’clk it blew so heavily that we were placed under double-reefed topsails, & the wind increasing the Capt ordered the Carpenter to put in the dead lights at our windows. The wind still increased till 2 o’clk the next morning when it blew – to use the Capts words “a very severe gale”. The sea broke over the ship, with a shock like that of thunder, & when I went on deck about midnight I found the Capt anxious as to the safety of the ship – not so much from the effect of the gale, as from the violence of the sea, which was, to use a hackneyed phrase “running mountains high”. Towards morning the wind abated, & yesterday the good ship “Africaine” was again persueing her course without having sustained any injury beyond the loss of main-top sail, which was torn into shreds. Capt Duff informs me that he never saw the sea higher, or had so severe a gale. This morning we passed the singular little Island of St Paul’s. It had been the Capts intention to stay here for a few hours to procure fish, but the wind was blowing so favourably that the prosecution of the voyage was too tempting for delay.
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Friday 14 October 1836
14 October-Moderate breezes and cloudy. Employed all day getting things on shore and erecting a store tent.
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Thursday 13 October 1836
Thursday, 13th October.
The gale increased last night and blew with such violence that we were in momentary expectation of having our tent blown away. Jacob and I were the only two Officers on shore and in the night the carpenter and one of the labourers broached the rum cask and got dreadfully drunk. The latter was nearly dead this morning when I drew him out of the sand in which he was nearly buried and to make matters worse the tide rose so much higher than usual in the night that it floated our two boats that had been hauled up above high water mark. A box of carpenter’s tools was washed out of the surveying boat and nearly all of them are lost. Last night was the first I have slept on shore since we left England. A more uncomfortable one I never passed and it would not require many such to make me wish myself on board again. The [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] has ridden out the gale bravely which proves that the anchorage is good. The weather moderated about noon and at 4 p.m. the Captain and Lady with Pullen and party joined us and all things are going on smoothly. I sent two of our natives to hunt with our dogs and they have captured a fine kangaroo which will be sufficient to feed all hands for four days.
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Thursday 13 October 1836
Thursday, Octr 13. Fresh breezes & fine. Wind N.E. Course S.E.
Allowance of water 5 pints a day: met with a heavy
disaster – upset my water bottle, & lost a quart of its contents
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Thursday 13 October 1836
13 October-Strong gales and a high sea. All the forenoon the ship pitched very much, but she held on well; at one p.m. it began to moderate, and by four we had fine weather. I went on shore, and we landed a few more things the same evening.
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Thursday 13 October 1836
Thursday Octr 13. To-day at 12 upwards of 120 miles from Rio
This evening, Mr Fisher, the resident Commissioner fell down on deck
in an epileptic fit, from which he seemed to suffer much. From the
coolness with which his family looked on amid the general alarm I appre-
-hend that he is subject to such attacks. If the Commissioners at home did
not know of the fact, I think it would be right to inform them, as no
provision that I know of has been made to carry on the duties of his
situation in the event of his being suddenly incapacitated. Another characte
ristic bit of authority on board to-day. The dogs belonging to the passengers
have been refused their modicum of water; those belonging to the Captain
were not included of course. Not to say a word on the score of humanity,
popularity is known to be very fleeting & his Excellency therefore takes
no care to secure even the smallest portion of that perishable commodity
But the expression of disgust was too strong & general upon the subject
to be resisted, & the order was rescinded in the course of the evening
in the hope that the malcontents would be duly sensible of the
favor done them by the non-exercise of the power possessed at sea
by a Captain in the Royal Navy!
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Light airs from the eastward, and very fine weather; we all felt in high spirits, the air had a freshness quite exhilarating, and the idea of winter and gales being now over, we might set to work without any hindrances except what usually and unavoidably attend the commencement of such an undertaking…
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Wednesday 12th The Colonel has determined on remaining here for some time in the mean time the Brig to proceed to Nepean Bay for the remainder of the Surveying party & stores. Commenced immediately landing the camp equipment & stores. On returning to the Brig in the evening heavy surf upon the beach for the […]
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Wednesday, Octr 12. Light airs & fine. N.E. 5.30. Weighed & made
sail.
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
…The natives we left in care of the garden have proved honest and are here to welcome our return and claim their reward. Our garden is looking well the seeds having nearly all come up.
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Wednesday Octr 12. Off with a fair wind, but the Buffalo seems
to be in more inextricable confusion that ever; half the men
scarcely sober, the other half fit for nothing from the effects of the
gross intemperance in which they have been permitted to indulge
A fresh supply of poultry, & as if the poor emigrants had not
nuisance around them enough already, eight or ten half grown
hogs which the Captain purchased at Rio a bargain have been
added for their comfort & cleanliness. The Captain’s strict orders from
the Admiralty were to proceed without touching at any port unless
in case of necessity. On a very short allowance of water, we might
have gone on to the Cape; & it was to avoid a measure of this kind
that we came a couple of thousand miles & more out of our track to
Rio. And now what has been the first step taken by the Captain
on leaving this port? Why to do the very thing he came here professedly
to avoid, to reduce the allowance of water to each passenger and
emigrant one pint a day! Besides the mules & hogs, the pens are
filled up with his Excellency’s turkeys, guinea fowls, geese and
poultry, & they must have water; so to accommodate them, we
are thus treated! But this is quite consistent with his general conduct
which is daily becoming more offensive.
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
OCTOBER 12.-Although several times we had had very high winds and rough weather we had not as yet had anything that could be called a storm, but this day and the following night we were destined to experience such a one as the oldest sailor on board had not seen for many years, and in which they declared many a vessel would have foundered and gone down. In the morning there was nothing more than a stiff breeze, but about noon it rose considerably, and continued to increase till it became a complete hurricane. The vessel plunged and rolled from side to side in such a manner that those who had never been to sea can have no idea of, and the waves dashed over the ship with fearful violence. The captain, mates, and crew were upon the deck the whole night. For myself, I neither undressed nor lay down, but continued sitting at my cabin door, listening to and watching the progress of the storm, which from 9 to 12 o’clock was truly awful. The wind then lowered a little for about an hour, when it again rose with redoubled fury, and so continued till daylight. Then it ceased blowing with violence, but the agitation of the sea continued unabated for several hours.
Fortunately our lamp, which hung midway between the cabins, and which was usually extinguished at 10 o’clock, was on this occasion suffered to burn the whole night. I was very glad of such a companion, as I was sitting alone, being, I believe, the only passenger who was so foolish, it may be called, as to sit up. But I could not be satisfied otherwise, for had an accident occurred we would have been instantly overflowed, as, notwithstanding the hatches were close shut, the water frequently came over the decks with such force as to pour through the crevices in torrents. About midnight a sailor came down with a pail and a mop to soak it up, and again at 6 o’clock in the morning, when, as I thought, the storm being over, we would have no more for that time. I followed with a cloth, and made the floor as dry as I could, but had scarcely finished when a tremendous wave dashed through a square hole which had been left open, and not only completely deluged the part which the sailor and I had been so industriously endeavouring to dry, but also overflowed my own cabin, which till then had escaped such a disaster.
I could not help laughing, though I was well drenched myself, to see our work so quickly undone, but the only remedy was to do it again, which I did without the help of the sailor, who probably was not aware of what had happened.
I have often said that I would like to witness a storm at sea, but then I meant myself to be on dry land and only a spectator of the warring elements, for little did I conceive the terrors of such an awful scene. Yet, as it pleased God to bring us safely through the danger, I am not now sorry that I have heard the terrific roar of the winds and the rush of the mighty waters, though I candidly confess that I do not wish to hear them in like manner again. We had one satisfaction, however, and that was that the wind, though violent, was still in our favour, and sent us swiftly on.
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
On the Gale moderating which it did not until Monday 11th weighed & procee- -ded down the Gulf abreast of Yankalila we saw a boat standing out from under the land it turned out to be Mr Stevens C. Manager & Mr Morphett a gent- -leman arrived in Cygnet now lying at Nepean Bay & […]
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
Tuesday, 11th October
… About one we descried a boat steering for us and it was soon alongside when we found it contained little Stephens (our Nepean Bay friend) and Mr. Morphett a Land Agent who had come out in the “Cygnet” which vessel we were all delighted to hear had arrived safe on the 11th. of last month. They had, as we suspected, put into Rio for water. They have had two births on board, one since their arrival and one off the Island. Little Stevens has made the “[tooltip color=”grey” text=”Literally meaning honourable compensation, amende honourable was a public apology or reparation made to satisfy the honour of a person wronged.”]amende honourable[/tooltip]” since we left the Island by marrying a girl whom he had been living with in a discreditable manner. She is the sister of an industrious man by the name of “Bear” – the same whose wife became insane on the passage out.
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
OCTOBER 11.-A fine morning after a very rough night. I did not undress.
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
…At a quarter to six got under way, light variable winds from the S.W. At noon we observed a boat coming towards us; at two p.m. hove to for the boat, which brought Mr Morphett and Mr Stephens. From these gentlemen we learned the arrival of the Cygnet at Nepean Bay, and that great part of the stores were already landed, and that the party had begun to hut themselves. I now resolved upon going into Rapid Bay, and after landing some stores there, to send the brig to Kangaroo Island, to fetch over the Assistant Surveyors, that they might be employed in the survey on this side of the Gulf, during my examination of Port Lincoln…
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
Tuesday, Octr 11. Cloudy weather. Unmoored Ship, & crossed
royal yards. Received a number of banana, pine,
cactus, & other plants, as emigrants to South Australia.
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Sunday 9 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 9. Heavy showers. Walked with the Hindmarshes –
Attended Divine Service on board HM Ship Dublin (50).
The Governor introduced me to Sir Graham Eden Hammond.
Dined & took tea with the Hindmarshes in the cabin.
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Monday 10 October 1836
…we proceeded down the coast in search of the river the native woman had mentioned. At half past one p.m. [tooltip color=”grey” text=”To ‘heave to’ is to reduce a ship’s sails and adjust them so they counteract each other and stop the ship making progress. It is a safety measure used to deal with strong winds.”] hove to [/tooltip] abreast of the river, and sent Mr Pullen in the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A light, narrow ship’s boat that could be rowed or sailed.”] gig [/tooltip] to examine the entrance. At ten past two he returned, and reported his seeing a large river for some distance, but the bar of sand having such a surf over it that he was nearly upset. Again disappointed in my hopes of finding Jones’s harbour, I now felt fully convinced that no such thing could exist on this coast, at least as described by him. Captain Jones’s account says:
There are several other streams of fine water all along the eastern side of the Gulf St. Vincent. Sturt River is always open to the sea, but the others are closed by a bar of sand during the summer, through which the water filters. The inlet (mis-called by Sturt Sixteen-mile Creek) is a stream of fresh water, and is much deeper and wider than the rest. About fifteen or twenty miles north of this river, he discovered a fine harbour, sheltered by an island at its entrance; the southern passage through which he entered is about one mile wide, with three and a half to four [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip] water; he anchored here in three and a half [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip], and remained a day and a night. He did not land on the main, but was on shore on the island, which is about three miles in circumference; it is sandy, but there is an abundance of fresh water on it, as well as some streams running into the harbour from the main land…
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Monday 10 October 1836
Monday, Octr 10. Showery weather. Completed water again.
People busy washing clothes. Up tgt yards. Got
two mules on board & stowed them in the launch.
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Sunday 9 October 1836
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9.-The wind still fair, but the sea not so rough. It was remarkable that, with two exceptions (one of which was after we left the Cape, when the weather was too boisterous to admit of Divine Service on deck), Sundays have been very fine and generally calm, as if the winds and waves […]
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Sunday 9 October 1836
Sunday, 9th October.
Claughton and I again went on shore after dinner with our guns and killed sufficient fowl with yesterday’s sport for two meals. The great scarcity of fresh provisions from which most of us have suffered more or less could alone justify our thus breaking the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”For most Christians the Sabbath is Sunday, the day they celebrate their religion. For other Christians and for Jewish people the Sabbath is Saturday.”] Sabbath [/tooltip] and I feel confident that neither of us would have done it for mere pleasure. We had expended all our ammunition and were returning towards the ship with empty guns when we found ourselves close upon five native huts which as we had no means of defence created a little alarm. It turned, however, that they were vacant and we resumed our journey unmolested but at a rather quicker pace than we had hitherto walked…
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Monday 10 October 1836
9 p.m. Monday, 10th October. In getting under weigh early this morning we were obliged to ship one of our anchors which had got foul of the other. This accident detained us some time. We again made sail at 10 a.m. and ran back about fifteen miles along the coast to the Southward with the […]
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Sunday 9 October 1836
9 October-Still very unsettled weather; at noon calm, which lasted till eight p.m. Employed on board in writing, &c.
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Saturday 8 October 1836
Saturday, Octr 8. Fresh breezes & rainy. S.W. Employed watering.
9[?]. Completed water. Went Shopping with the Hind-
-marshes. Dined in the cabin. Mr Vidal came to tea.
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Saturday 8 October 1836
7 p.m. Saturday, 8th October.
The wind having moderated a boat was sent off for the women – they had caught no game as they and the dogs were too hungry to hunt – a few roots were the only food they had had. After breakfast Claughton, Jacob, Pullen and myself landed with our guns and went up the banks of the river in search of wild fowl with which it was actually swarming but they were so wild and wary that we were very unsuccessful only having killed between us a duck and brace of teal. There are several lagoons, or what we should call marshes in England, in the neighbourhood of the river, in these wild fowl resort to breed and this is apparently breeding-season as we picked up a cygnet and young duck neither of them fledged. On our return we shot a brace of quails and a beautiful rail resembling our landrail in all but plumage which was much finer…
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Saturday 8 October 1836
8 October-Very unsettled weather throughout the day; employed setting up topmast rigging and other jobs.
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Friday 7 October 1836
Friday, Octr [7]. Moderate & cloudy. 9. Rode to the Botanical Gardens
with the Hindmarshes. 4. Heavy rain. Empd watering.
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Monday 7 October 1836
Monday, Novr 7. Fresh breezes & squally. Wind W.S.W. Course S.E.b E. Miles run, 173 + 10332 = 10505. Lat. 37E28′ So. Longe 25E3′ East. Noon. Fresh breezes with a heavy swell. P.M. Do Wr.
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Friday 7 October 1836
OCTOBER 7.-The wind calmer, but the ship still going briskly on, making an average about two hundred miles in twenty-four hours. These scraps of nautical information I obtained chiefly from the captain, whom I did not scruple to question respecting anything that I thought worth recording, and as many of the passengers were aware that I kept a diary, they were usually willing to give me any information that lay in their power. Some of them did the same thing, I believe, but they were not so accurate in dates and many other circumstances, for I was applied to more than once after we arrived in Australia for information on several matters by our former shipmates, who confessed that they could not depend upon their own records.
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Friday 7 October 1836
Saturday Oct 7th The two Messrs Powell & Chandler have been engaged all the Week at Fencing, and assisting me with Stock, except with the Stores on Thursday ___ Saturday Oct 15th The Men have been engaged all this Week at repairing our Sheep Sheds, and helping me with the live Stock _____
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Friday 7 October 1836
…We landed our women the day before yesterday to hunt and this evening they made their appearance on the beach when four volunteers started in the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A light, narrow ship’s boat that could be rowed or sailed.”] gig [/tooltip] to bring them off but from the height of the rollers were unable to reach the shore. We fear the poor women may be suffering from hunger as they were scantily provided with provisions and we were to have picked them up at Yankalilah [Yankalilla], but provided they have been successful in hunting which I hope to God they have they will not be so badly off always having the means of kindling a fire.
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Friday 7 October 1836
7 October-Strong breezes and cloudy. At eleven, the gale increasing, veered away fifteen fathoms more on each cable, and she held on well during the rest of the gale, which was most violent about noon. Toward evening, the gale moderated, but it was very squally throughout the night.
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Thursday 6 October 1836
9 p.m. Thursday, 6th October. We got our anchor up shortly after 6 a.m. this morning and made a start for Yankelilah [Yankalilla] where we intended to take in water. The weather was fine for the first hour or so, but after an hour’s calm a fresh breeze from the N.W. sprung up which shifted […]
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Thursday 6 October 1836
Thursday 6th Weighed & stood down the Gulf about
[blank] miles below the last anchorage from the Mast head was
observed a stream apparently issuing from the hills and
discharging a little below us into the sea. I was immediately
despatched & found it to be small at the mouth but inc-
-reasing in size inland & apparently deep water which
I could not ascertain there being a heavy surf on could
not get the boat in it is now called the Onkaparinga
With every appearance of a Gale apparently not good
anchorage so as soon as I reached the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] the Colonel
bore up for the last anchorage & there rode out a heavy
gale not the first one which we had rode out here
From the good holding ground it was named Holdfast
Bay which it now retains.
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Thursday 6 October 1836
Thursday, Octr 6. Light winds & fine. Employed watering.
Attended the Hindmarshes to the Museum. Dined on shore.
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Thursday 6 October 1836
6 October…At six, got under way to run down the coast, as the native woman on board said there was still a large river more to the southward, which we had passed in coming up…
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
Thursday Oct 5th We were all employ’d this Day in clearing away the Road to the Beach, and getting the Stores up to my Cottag, that were out all last Night
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
Wednesday, Octr 5. Light winds & fine. Vble. Busy getting
bread & stores on board in flag-ship’s boats.
Spent the day on board & on shore with the Hindmarshes.
Breaker’s baby died while on shore, but was brought off.
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
9 p.m. Wednesday, 5th October.
I have not been on shore today having been busy [tooltip color=”grey” text=”casting lead for his gun”] casting balls[/tooltip], cleaning my gun and mending my [tooltip color=”grey” text=”underwear”] inexpressibles[/tooltip]. Claughton and Jacob who took their guns up the river this morning have returned with two brace and a half of Teal – the second fresh meal we have fallen in with this week. This worth recording as fresh meals come so few and far between and I am sorry to say some of the men are beginning to suffer for the want of them.
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
5 October-Light breezes and fine. Having much to do in observing several bearings from the ship, for the purpose of constructing my hasty chart of this side of the gulf, I remained at anchor, and sent Messrs Claughton and Jacob to trace the river up if they could, until they found fresh water in it. At one a.m. these gentlemen returned, and said the river about four miles from the mouth was fresh, it was then a very narrow stream bending to the N.E., and appeared to have its source in the plains-a circumstance that led me to suppose that more of these lagoons existed in that direction; and as every appearance indicated that these lagoons would be dry in summer, I felt convinced that the torrents from the mountains must be the fountain from whence they were now filled. My previous observations at sea,which I remarked often to Mr Field before I saw this country, were that all the vapours from the prevalent south-westerly winds would rest on the mountains here, and that we should, if we could locate this side the gulf, be never in dread of those droughts so often experienced on the eastern coast of Australia. And I was now fully persuaded by the evidence here shown, as well as the repeated collection of clouds, and rain falling on the hills even at this season of the year.
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Tuesday, Octr 4. Moderate breezes & fine. Running along the land towards Rio Janeiro. Wind Easterly. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 113 + 6589 = 6702. At 2.30. Anchored in Rio Janeiro harbour. Salu- -ted Rear Admiral Hammond, which was returned: also the flag of Brazil with 21 guns, which was returned. Moored the Ship. […]
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
4 October-Fresh breezes and fine; went on shore at nine a.m. to examine the plain. I cannot express my delight at seeing no bounds to a flat of fine rich-looking country with an abundance of fresh-water lagoons, which, if dry in summer, convinced me that one need not dig a deep well to give sufficient […]
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
OCTOBER 4.-A strong wind after a rough night, which was now increased to a complete gale. The sails had been all furled but two, and the ship rocked so much that everything which was not securely lashed was overturned and out of its place. The waves so incessantly broke over the vessel that it was almost impossible to stand on the deck. I ventured up for a few minutes to take a view of the raging sea, with its towering hills of water covered with foam, but grand beyond all description. I could have stood for hours to look at it, for I had now become too much accustomed to it to feel alarm. Although it inspired me with awe, it filled me with wonder and admiration.
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
9 p.m. Tuesday, 4th October.
Remained on board all day. Colonel Light has been four miles up the river with which he is much pleased – the water is very good and it abounds with teal and other wild fowl. On the plain to the right of it he discovered several fresh water lagoons some of which are nearly a mile in length. The mouth of the stream is Lat. 34.59.
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Tuesday Octr 4th. Anchored in this beautiful harbour at
last; fired a salute of 11 guns to the Admiral & 21 to the
Brazilian flag. Went ashore immediately with my family
and found all our friends at Rio well and glad
to welcome us. Our Colony has created great interest
here —
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Wednesday Oct 4th Mr Beare sent up a lot of Stores, which arrd at the Beach about 7 O’Clock P.M. but it being quite dark, they were obliged to be left there all Night _______
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Tuesday 4th…The party returned about 3 o
clock reporting well of the country We now for the first time saw
the Native fires so they cannot be far off, it is reported by the
women accompanying us they are rather a fierce set about
here.
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday, 3rd October. Some of our Officers having imagined they saw the mouth of a larger river about two miles to the southward of us, we weighed anchor after breakfast and the Brig proceeded in the direction indicated while another party which I joined, walked along the shore a distance of six miles without finding […]
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Sunday 2 October 1836
Sunday, 2nd October. About 9 p.m. last night the wind again shifted to the S.W. and increased to a strong gale which has blown ever since. As the wind was right on shore we let go another anchor and veered away so much cable that this morning we ran foul of the surveying boat that […]
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Sunday 2 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 2. Fresh breezes & squally. 2. Wore Ship & stood to the Westward. Wind S.b W. Head West. Owing to the rain Prayers were read in the Wardroom. Many birds following the Ship today. Noon. Fresh breezes & fine. Miles run, 85 + 6423 = 6508. Late obs. 22E36′ So. Longe 39E37′ Wt. […]
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Sunday 2 October 1836
2 October-Strong gales and a heavy sea; down top-gallant yards, and struck topgallant masts, blowing hard all day. At eight p.m. more moderate; midnight, moderate.
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Sunday 2 October 1836
Sunday Octr 2. The breeze a little more favorable, and
our hopes of reaching Rio in a couple of days revived. No
public service to-day as there is a heavy sea rolling Mr Howard
read prayers in the Ward-room most of the Ladies & Gentlemen
were present. Neither the Governor nor any of his family I
am sorry to say, attended, although they were advised of the
intention. To-day the first albatross was seen. It was a
white one the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Wandering Albatross”] Diomedea exulans [/tooltip]…
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Monday 3 October 1836
3 October… at nine went on shore to examine the plains. And as two of my officers had said that they saw from the main-top something like a large river, only two miles from us to the southward, I resolved to walk there, and desired Mr Field to get under way and anchor the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip] at the mouth – as should this prove to be the long-sought-for harbour of Jones, I could run the brig in and carry on the survey there. And at this place from the same point, our party consisted of Messrs Pullen, Claughton, Woodforde, a gardener named Laws, with a spade, and the gig’s crew; the latter were desired to pull along shore, and stop at the mouth of the river. Messrs Claughton, Woodforde and Laws kept some way inland to examine the soil as they went along, while Pullen and myself kept along the beach. Thus prepared not to miss the river, we proceeded, but about two miles off, we found nothing but a rather wide indenture of the coast, and were also surprised at the brig’s not anchoring, we therefore walked on about five miles further, and finding nothing like a river, returned to where we landed. Mr Field seeing distinctly our movements on shore, came back to the former anchorage – and at four p.m. we all returned on board. I was much gratified at the report Laws gave me of the soil, he being a good judge. It was, he said, excellent, and the further inland he was certain it would be still more so.
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Sunday 2 October 1836
2nd Octr On waking this morning blowing hard a terrible hubbub on deck & heavy thumping under our quarter It was the Hatch Boat which had been anchored astern of the Brig and on veering got close to her damaged enough to give the Carpenter a week’s work. Field and Hill from the Mast head […]
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday Octr 3d Wind light, but favorable during the night. But from that strange want of confidence every now & then manifested in the correctness of our position, the Captain ordered the ship to be wore, and we were taken away from the land once more. After standing off for some hours we again made […]
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday, Octr 3. Light winds & fine. 8. Made all sail on a wind. Empd washing. 11. Saw the land on the lee beam. Noon. Miles run, 81 + 6508 = 6589. Lat. obs. 22E39′ So. Longe 40E39′ Wt. P.M. Light airs & fine. Sunset. Cape Frio, on lee bow, 20 miles.
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday 3rd Octr Moderate the Colonel with a party of us landed to walk to the River seen yesterday while the Brig proceeded keeping at a same time look out on us & to send a boat when a signal was made. After a long & heavy walk in deep sand with no appearance of […]
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Colonel returned early this morning without having discovered any river, but there are many creeks running inland from the Channel in some of which the water is brackish…
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Saturday 1 October 1836
1 October…Running down the coast, I was enchanted with the extent of the plain to the northward of the Mount Lofty range; and as we had very little wind, our progress was slow, and consequently more time for observation; all the glasses in the ship were in requisition. At length seeing something like the mouth of a small river, and a country with trees so dispersed as to allow the sight of most luxuriant green underneath, I immediately stood in for it, and at fifteen minutes past four p.m. came to an anchor in three and a half [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip] in mud and weeds, about one and a half miles from the mouth of the river…
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Saturday, October 1. Fresh breezes & cloudy. Set top & tgt studg sails. Employed painting Ship & preparing for harbour. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 164 + 6259 = 6423. Lat. obs. Longe . P.M. Do Wr. 4. Wind became variable with rain. 6. In 2 reefs of topsails. Calms & variable winds, rain occly.
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Oct 1st This Morng I got G. Bates to Saw off part of a
Horn, from One of the Merino Rams, in order to get at a Wound
that was underneath it, and which the Animal recd on the
first Day of being Tether’d by plunging about to get his
liberty, when the Cord slip’d under his Horn and cut his Neck
severely, since which time it has contd getting worse, on acct
of not being able to apply any remedy, for the above mention’d
piece of Horn being right upon the part most Wounded —
Powell and Chandler have been engaged at the new Fence, Yestdy
and to Day, while G. Bates has been employ’d among the
Stock and sometimes at the Fence, during all the Week, but
this Eveng left us to accompany Mr Stephens, on a visit
to the Main-Land with which he is well acquainted _______
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Saturday 1 October 1836
we immediately weighed & stood down the Gulf about 4 we anchored off the mouth of stream with Mt Lofty bearing about E. by S. On landing found the stream small and salt water at least as far as we traced it being a distance of not above a mile from the shortness of time […]
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Saturday October 1. To-day at 12 instead of being at
anchor in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro we are still 230
miles distant from the coast of Brazil. The wind this
evening blows directly in our teeth. No one will envy the
Governor’s feelings at the announcement of a foul wind.
The misfortune is that many may suffer bitterly for one
man’s indiscretion.
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Friday 30 September 1836
Friday, 30th September. I have not left the ship today. Colonel Light and Pullen left early this morning. It has been blowing a fresh breeze from the North-West all day which has been very warm with a fine clear sky. The thermometer has risen to 700 in the cabin.
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Friday 30 September 1836
30th This morning the Colonel with 4 men & myself left the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip]
with the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A class of net fishing boats used on the Thames estuary. The Rapid’s boat was built specially for the Colonization Commissioners by W.T. Gulliver of Wapping”] Hatch Boat [/tooltip] & proceed to the sands. The depth of water we got
in the sea reach was quite enough for any purpose, at the extreme
of the second (a long & splendid reach) we bore away through
the channel I came though yesterday (now styled North
channel & eventually likely to become the chief anchorage) and
followed a large creek diverging from it towards the Hills
We carried good water for a considerable distance, at last
were effectually stopped by the shoals there being no good
landing or appearance of Fresh water determined on returning
& renew the examination after visiting Port Lincoln. __
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Friday 30 September 1836
30 September…At the end of this reach, a large inlet appeared, still keeping a southerly direction; but as I was anxious to examine to the eastward, we ran about one mile in that direction, when another creek appeared in a line with Mount Lofty; into this I bent my course, with the strong hope of finding it prove the mouth of some fresh water stream from the mountains… I landed for the purpose of tracing on shore the source or direction of this creek, but the swamp and mangroves checked me entirely, therefore I returned to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A class of net fishing boats used on the Thames estuary. The Rapid’s boat was built specially for the Colonization Commissioners by W.T. Gulliver of Wapping”] hatch-boat [/tooltip], which being now afloat, we got under way; and having now fully persuaded myself that no part of this harbour could be that described by Captain Jones, I resolved on returning to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip], to run down the coast again, and see if by any chance we could have missed so desirable a shelter; but my mind was so impressed with the capabilities of this place, that it was my determination, should we be fortunate enough to discover the other, to return again to this as soon as I had made the first necessary survey…
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Friday 30 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 30.-Last night exceedingly rough weather, and this morning the sea still running mountains high, but indescribably beautiful. Well did the psalmist say, “They that go down to the sea in ships and occupy their business in great waters, these men see the works of the Lord and His wonders in the deep.”
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Friday 30 September 1836
Friday, Septr 30th. Moderate & cloudy. Set royals & studg sails. Wind N.N.E. Course West. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 143 + 6116 = 6259. Lat. obs. 22E9′ So. Longe T.K. 35E5′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. In studg sails. Cape Frio at Noon distant 390 miles, & bearing, S.82EWt.
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Thursday 29 September 1836
Thursday, 29th September…Pullen has returned with the surveying boat but is not certain as to the non-existence of a river, having seen a deep wide creek which he did not examine. Captain Light intends going himself tomorrow…
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Thursday 29 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 29.-This was Michaelmas Day, and the roughest we had yet seen since we had been on board. Not that there was much wind, but a tremendous sea burst over the decks and poured down the hatchways like a river, completely drenching all that came in its way. Our opposite neighbour, intending to go on deck, had just left his cabin when a wave came down over his head and gave him so complete a shower-bath that he was obliged to return and change his clothes; yet we had the satisfaction of knowing that the wind was fair and that we were proceeding at a rapid rate.
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Thursday 29 September 1836
29th Sept 1836 Directly I awoke wrote this imagine to your- -selves me sitting in the stern sheets of a boat, Claughton laying alongside me half asleep three men at our feet (but not in the streightest of positions in as comfortable a house as you could wish one man outside preparing breakfast which when […]
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Thursday 29 September 1836
Thursday, Septr 29. Moderate & cloudy Wr. All sail set, wind N.b E. Course West. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 170 + 5946 = 6116. Lat. DR. (no obs.) 21E42′ So. Longe 32E17′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. In royals.
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Thursday 29 September 1836
Sept 29th Chandler assisted by Powell, having been employd at his own Cottage for the last 3 Days, finish’d it this Eveng
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
28 September…; I was now full of hope that Jones’s harbour was at last found, and at one p.m. came to an anchor in our former berth, to await the arrival of Messrs Pullen and Claughton… At one p.m. Mr Pullen returned, reporting his entrance into the northern channel, &c.; no fresh water was seen, and the channel, though broad and deep at first, was reduced to [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] one fathom [/tooltip] water a short distance from the mouth. He further stated that there were two separate channels, thus forming two islands. This was so different to the account given by Jones that I felt a great disappointment…
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
Wednesday, Septr 28. Head West. Wind N.N.E. Trimmed sails, & in lee studg sails. 6. Saw Martin Vas rocks, North, about 7 leagues. Empd drilling gentlemen & the labourers. Noon. Moderate & fine. Miles run, 142 + 5804 = 5946. Late 21E12′ So. Longe 29E24′ Wt. P.M. Moderate breezes & fine.
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
Wednesday Septr 28th The wind now subsided into a calm, which enabled us to speak with a [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A schooner is a vessel with two masts, the main mast is taller than the forward mast and the largest sail on each mast is a fore and aft sail. “] schooner [/tooltip] on her way to Swan River. Her cargo contained amongst other things spirits of various kinds, equal in quantity to 100 puncheons which the Capt regarded as his most profitable investment. One 100 puncheons to a of 1600 persons! [sic] One puncheon to 16 persons – men, women & children! The cost of this importation would suffice to pay the passage of 100 labourers to the Colony, or thereabouts: a mode of expenditure infinitely more profitable to the Colony, seeing that the main cause of difficulty there, is the want of labourers. Capt Tobin, the commander of this [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A schooner is a vessel with two masts, the main mast is taller than the forward mast and the largest sail on each mast is a fore and aft sail. “] schooner [/tooltip] has resided in the Colony 4 years & says that the chief bane of the Colony is Drunkenness – to this he attributes greater political evils than the scarcity of labour for, he says, “the labourers we have there: from intoxication will scarcely ever perform three days work together”!
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
28 September, 1836 840 mile east of the Cape; still very fine. Shot two Blrds 10½ feet from extremity of Wings they were skinned for preservation – have taken 5 tons of Fish in a few hours and intend touching at St Pauls to take more.
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
9 p.m. Lat 34.46 Wednes. 28th We weighed at 9 a.m. and returned to our last anchorage where we came to at 1 p.m. The Surveying Boat kept close inshore but has discovered nothing new. There is a great doubt after all as to there being a river here as what was taken for the […]
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
Wednesday 28th Sept At ½ past 6 Claughton
4 men & myself with 3 days provisions left the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip]
and stood in for the shore…
About 2 o clock by following the shore close
found ourselves in a deep bight formed by the main…
After pulling about a
mile I found the flood which was now making
in a contrary direction to the one I wished to go
I was fully convinced of there being another outlet, we
pulled on, but the men were beginning to flag when
on rounding a point to our great joy at a considerable
distance a boat was seen under sail. This circumstance gave
me great pleasure as my conjecture on first
entering this channel was fully proved…
Now was prepared for supper could not go on shore to make a fire
so lit one in an iron pot, spread our awning (not unlike the tilt of a
waggon) and prepared to make ourselves snug. After getting some
tea (the greatest luxury a man can have after fatigue which I have
often proved) we now began to prick for the softest plank which necessary
being accomplished we lay down to sleep and awoke next mor-
-ning as much refreshed as if we had slept in the softest of beds.
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
Tuesday, Septr 27. Light winds, & light showers occasionally. Head S.b E. Wind East. 9.30. Altered course tod West, & made all sail before the wind for Rio Janeiro. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 103 + 5701 = 5804. Lat. 20E31′ S. Longe. P.M. Moderate & fine, a light shower occasionally. A large Ship standing […]
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
…Colonel Light is of opinion that we have passed all the rivers on this side of the Gulf and that the one he went to yesterday is the one described by Captain Jones – the distance we kept from the shore while running along it renders this highly probable. Colonel Light intends to retrace his steps and while the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] keeps at a safe distance the surveying boat is to run close in so that nothing in the shape of a river can thus escape us…At daybreak this morning I went with the boat to haul up the net which we had left in the water all night – we found it full of fish but our disappointment to see nothing but dog-fish and sting-ray. Of the latter, bad and coarse as it was, we ate heartily at breakfast. It is not unlike Skait and I have ordered some of it to be hung for a day or two to give it a fair trial. The former were a very disgusting looking fish resembling the dog-fish of the English shores in all except the head which was bony and in shape like a gurnet. Anything in the shape of fresh provisions is so acceptable that, uninviting as these fish are, we intend having some fried for breakfast tomorrow. We have had no kangaroo for some time not having had an opportunity of landing our women and dogs.
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
27 September…we came to anchor in three fathoms, about four miles from the shore, latitude 34°31′ south. From this position we could distinctly see the head of the Gulf as laid down by Flinders, and the opposite shore-nothing could look much worse, mangroves and very low swampy looking ground seemed to surround this bight. I now despaired of ever finding the beautiful harbour described by Captain Jones, but the jolly-boat with Mr Field was sent in shore to see if anything like an inlet could be found…
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
Tuesday Sepr 27. After obstinately persevering in taking the
ship out of our course for the last four days, the Captain has
once more altered his mind and we are again steering for
Rio. We have lost from four to five hundred miles by this
unaccountable and to my view unwarrantable proceeding,
but it is useless to complain or remonstrate. My position
precludes me from doing more than stating here what are
the opinions and feelings of every individual of common
sense on board, and I record them more in sorrow than in
anger. We are at present six or seven days sail from Rio;
had we not madly altered our course on the 24th we should
have been, to-day, with the wind as it has stood ever since,
within three hundred miles of our port
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
__ Jany 7th 1842 on looking over some papers to day I picked up an old memorandum book with the occurences at the time we were in search of the harbour and the morning when the incidents I have above related took place I really thought all had been lost in the unfortunate fire of […]
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
My Dear Sir,
…Nothing is yet done (or rather nothing yet appears to have been done towards paying a Dividend, but I assure you, that most deliberately & coolly, I at this moment consider the shares of the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”South Australian Company”] S.A.C. [/tooltip] to be worth more than I ever expected they would be in so short a time – In four or five days [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Deo Volente – God willing.”] (D.V.) [/tooltip] I shall go over to Cape Jervis with the view of Discharging the “Emma” on her arrival at “Yankalilla” & there forming forthwith an Agricultural Establishment, for which purpose I think of employing that Vessel to fetch up Stock. The John Pirie must keep at work fetching Sawn Timber as there is no timber here or there that is worth a rush for building. I wish I had 3 or 4 more such handy & roomy little Craft as the “Pirie” – I could employ them so as to return us a handsome Profit & I hope you will press upon the Board the propriety of sending out more whale ships – Nothing can be more suitable than the “Lady Mary Pelham”, she is exactly the thing. – Our two whalers intend to return here next May & take the Black Whale season (in which they can hardly help doing well) & then after refreshing – Proceed on an Eight months Cruise for Sperm & this is the course all our ships (except very large ones) had better pursue…
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Sunday 25 September 1836
25 September … I left the ship to examine what appeared to us a considerable inlet; the water shoaled very gradually, and about half a mile from our supposed inlet it became very shallow, and soon after the boat grounded. Seeing this could not be Jones’s harbour, which I was intensely anxious about, I resolved on returning to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip] and running higher up the Gulf, but on getting on board, Mr Hill, [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A merchant ship’s officer next in rank below the first mate; also known as a ‘second officer’.”] second mate [/tooltip], told me he had seen from the masthead a river to the southward of considerable breadth…
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Monday 26 September 1836
26 September… After going some distance and finding it did not accord with Captain Jones’s description of the harbour he discovered, I determined on running higher up the Gulf…
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Sunday 25 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 25.-Wet and stormy, but while we were on shore the weather was remarkably fine, the sky being cloudless in the daytime and at night the moon shining with peculiar brightness.
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Monday 26 September 1836
9 p.m. Monday, 25th September. Colonel Light has at length found the mouth of the river which is a considerable one, but he of opinion that there is a larger one higher up the Gulf described by Captain Jones and as it would detain us two or three weeks to survey this one properly he […]
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Monday 26 September 1836
Monday, Septr 26. Moderate & fine. Course S.S.E. Wind E.b N.
Very busy drilling both labourers & their masters.
A dozen little pigs born last night, eleven doing well.
Noon. Miles run, 124 + 5577 = 5701. Lat. 19E13′ South.
Longe Rio Janeiro, distant 890 miles, & bearing W.½So.
P.M. Light winds & fine. [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A dance performed by four couples. It became popular in England after 1813.”] Quadrilles [/tooltip] & country dances on deck.
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Monday 26 September 1836
Sept 26th Chandler was employ’d the Forenoon among the live Stock and Powell at the new Fence — G. Bates arrd from Kingscote at Noon, and bringing with him a few Rope Yarns
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Sunday 25 September 1836
Sunday, 25th September.
Both boats went away this morning to find the mouth of the river but they have as yet been baffled in their search – a deep channel was seen this afternoon from the mast-head taking a circuitous course nearly parallel with the shore and Field who took the jolly-boat to sound in it believes it to be that of the river, he does not, however, think that there is depth enough for the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] as in some parts of it he only found five feet at low-water, what the rise and fall is we have not ascertained. Colonel Light intends to make an early start tomorrow and I hope he will be more successful as it is far from pleasant lying at so great a distance from the land without being able to get a run. Bradley, our Boatswain, has been discharged from duty today for insolence to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”First officer directly coming under the command of the captain. Ships’ Mates were responsible for supervising watches, crew, navigation and safety equipment, and sometimes even served as the ship’s doctor.”] First-Mate [/tooltip]. This is the first rumpus we had had since we left England.
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Sunday 25 September 1836
Sunday, Septr 25th. Moderate breezes & fine wr. Course So. Wind E.b S. Revd C. Howard read prayers & preached after Muster by Divisions. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 124 + 5453 = 5577. Lat.17E21′ So. Longe 28E14′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr.
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Saturday 24 September 1836
…The [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A light, narrow ship’s boat that could be rowed or sailed.”] gig [/tooltip] has returned without having found a passage to the mouth of the river – the day being too far gone to admit of a further search this evening…
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Saturday 24 September 1836
Saturday, Septr 24th. Moderate & fine. Course So. Wind E.b S. Set roy- -als. Washed lower deck. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 120 + 5333 = 5453. Late 15E21′ So. Longe 28E12′ Wt. P.M. Fine wr.
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Saturday 24 September 1836
24 September-At eight a.m. light breezes with rain; at half past eight got under way, found our anchor broke nearly asunder in the shank, and we had neared the shore very much before the ship got way on her; at ten o’clock fresh breezes and hazy; at noon the weather clearer; at half past four […]
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Saturday 24 September 1836
Saturday Sepr 24. We have been making excellent way for
some days, and in the full hope of reaching Rio by Wednesday
or Thursday; but an announcement from the Captain to-day
that he has now determined to go to the Cape instead of to
Rio Janeiro has thrown us all aback once more. Never was
such an act of imprudence attempted; it can only be character-
-ized as sheer folly. Our course is now altered and we are to
be put on short allowance of water. This news has created
great dismay and the poor Governor’s popularity has fallen
below zero with every body. It is absolutely distressing to all
true friends of the Colony to witness such pranks. We must
go to Rio, for there is not water to take us to the Cape, even
on short allowance. The officers of the ship to-day are making
wry faces and exchanging most significant looks and
shrugs: No wonder!
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Saturday 24 September 1836
Sept 24th Powell and Chandler have been engaged all Yestdy
& this Day, strengthening the Sheep Sheds, and commenced putting
a good strong Fence round the two Paddocks as the temporary ones
that were made at our first coming here, have become of no use whatever
to keep in the Sheep…
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Friday 23 September 1836
11th to 23rd inclusive. I have been partially confined to my bed with illness – I have been also (in such time as I was able) very much engaged in arranging for the departure of the “John Pirie” &c, & these are the reasons why my Journal has been here neglected. – On the morning […]
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Friday 23 September 1836
Friday, Septr 23. Modte & fine. Course, S.W.b S. At 7. Wind came East, out all reefs, set royals & tgt studg sails. 8.30. In royals. Washed clothes. Noon. Do Wr. Light winds. Miles run, 145 + 5188= = 5333. Lat. 13E21′ So. Longe 27E30′ West. P.M. Light winds. Sunset. In 1st reefs, royals, & […]
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Friday 23 September 1836
At about 5 o’clock on Friday evening we also returned to the vessel, and the following morning again set sail for Australia…
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Friday 23 September 1836
23 September…Felt some disappointment at the appearance of the land, as it looked so luxuriant from the ship; we could find no fresh water; a lake of some extent on the high ground above the beach proved, on reaching it, to be salt. Although the ground we went over was not so good as the rest we had seen, yet the country a few miles inland appeared the same as that we had left…
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Thursday 22 September 1836
Sept 22d Chandler assisted by Powell, has been employ’d at his own Cottage Yestdy Forenoon and all this Day, but cannot finish it untill we get some Rope Yarns from Kingscote
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Thursday 22 September 1836
Thursday, Septr 22. Moderate & fine. Out all reefs, set royals & tgt studg sails. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 134 + 5054 = 5188. Late 11E17′ So. Longe 26E26′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. Wind S.E. Head S.W.b S.
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