Saturday, Octr 15. Fresh breezes & cloudy. Wind N.N.E. Course E.S.E. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 180 + 7034 = 7214. Lat. D.R. 29E 9′ So. Longe 36E41′. P.M. Rain Occasionally. 11. Wind shifted to the N.E.
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Saturday 15 October 1836
15 October-The few remaining things left yesterday were landed early this morning. In the forenoon, I was employed in arranging the disposition of tents, &c. And the afternoon writing to the Commissioners, with a mind worn down with anxiety in consequence of such repeated bad weather checking our work, and the dread of having a host of emigrants out before I knew where to land them.
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Saturday 15 October 1836
OCTOBER 15.-This day it was so cold that a slight shower of snow fell.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Friday, Octr 14. Fresh breezes & hazy. Wind N.E.b N. Head S.E.b E. Set & in tgt sails occasionally. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 180 + 6854 = 7034. Lat. obs. 27E30′ So. Longe 39E26′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Friday, 14th October.
We have been busy all day putting our tents to rights and have just returned from our native’s fire where they entertained us with their native dance called by them [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A word from the Sydney area, in common usage by the 1830s to refer to a dance or ceremony performed by Australian Aboriginal people.”]“Corroborey”[/tooltip]. It is chiefly characterized by feats of activity and violent contortions of muscle having nothing of grace in its composition. They dance it to a very monotonous harsh kind of vocal music, constantly repeating the same words. After the dance was over I played them an air on the flute. They seemed very much pleased but did not evince any great surprise.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Thursday 14th Visited by the Natives dist-
-ributed amongst them a few red jackets &
trousers old ordnance stores which we were furn-
-ished with for that purpose, they were very
much pleased by them.
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Friday 14 October 1836
Octr 14th The morning of the 12th opened brightly, but about 11 o’clk it blew so heavily that we were placed under double-reefed topsails, & the wind increasing the Capt ordered the Carpenter to put in the dead lights at our windows. The wind still increased till 2 o’clk the next morning when it blew – to use the Capts words “a very severe gale”. The sea broke over the ship, with a shock like that of thunder, & when I went on deck about midnight I found the Capt anxious as to the safety of the ship – not so much from the effect of the gale, as from the violence of the sea, which was, to use a hackneyed phrase “running mountains high”. Towards morning the wind abated, & yesterday the good ship “Africaine” was again persueing her course without having sustained any injury beyond the loss of main-top sail, which was torn into shreds. Capt Duff informs me that he never saw the sea higher, or had so severe a gale. This morning we passed the singular little Island of St Paul’s. It had been the Capts intention to stay here for a few hours to procure fish, but the wind was blowing so favourably that the prosecution of the voyage was too tempting for delay.
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Friday 14 October 1836
14 October-Moderate breezes and cloudy. Employed all day getting things on shore and erecting a store tent.
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Thursday 13 October 1836
Thursday, 13th October.
The gale increased last night and blew with such violence that we were in momentary expectation of having our tent blown away. Jacob and I were the only two Officers on shore and in the night the carpenter and one of the labourers broached the rum cask and got dreadfully drunk. The latter was nearly dead this morning when I drew him out of the sand in which he was nearly buried and to make matters worse the tide rose so much higher than usual in the night that it floated our two boats that had been hauled up above high water mark. A box of carpenter’s tools was washed out of the surveying boat and nearly all of them are lost. Last night was the first I have slept on shore since we left England. A more uncomfortable one I never passed and it would not require many such to make me wish myself on board again. The [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] has ridden out the gale bravely which proves that the anchorage is good. The weather moderated about noon and at 4 p.m. the Captain and Lady with Pullen and party joined us and all things are going on smoothly. I sent two of our natives to hunt with our dogs and they have captured a fine kangaroo which will be sufficient to feed all hands for four days.
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Thursday 13 October 1836
Thursday, Octr 13. Fresh breezes & fine. Wind N.E. Course S.E.
Allowance of water 5 pints a day: met with a heavy
disaster – upset my water bottle, & lost a quart of its contents
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Thursday 13 October 1836
13 October-Strong gales and a high sea. All the forenoon the ship pitched very much, but she held on well; at one p.m. it began to moderate, and by four we had fine weather. I went on shore, and we landed a few more things the same evening.
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Thursday 13 October 1836
Thursday Octr 13. To-day at 12 upwards of 120 miles from Rio
This evening, Mr Fisher, the resident Commissioner fell down on deck
in an epileptic fit, from which he seemed to suffer much. From the
coolness with which his family looked on amid the general alarm I appre-
-hend that he is subject to such attacks. If the Commissioners at home did
not know of the fact, I think it would be right to inform them, as no
provision that I know of has been made to carry on the duties of his
situation in the event of his being suddenly incapacitated. Another characte
ristic bit of authority on board to-day. The dogs belonging to the passengers
have been refused their modicum of water; those belonging to the Captain
were not included of course. Not to say a word on the score of humanity,
popularity is known to be very fleeting & his Excellency therefore takes
no care to secure even the smallest portion of that perishable commodity
But the expression of disgust was too strong & general upon the subject
to be resisted, & the order was rescinded in the course of the evening
in the hope that the malcontents would be duly sensible of the
favor done them by the non-exercise of the power possessed at sea
by a Captain in the Royal Navy!
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Light airs from the eastward, and very fine weather; we all felt in high spirits, the air had a freshness quite exhilarating, and the idea of winter and gales being now over, we might set to work without any hindrances except what usually and unavoidably attend the commencement of such an undertaking…
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Wednesday 12th The Colonel has determined on remaining here for some time in the mean time the Brig to proceed to Nepean Bay for the remainder of the Surveying party & stores. Commenced immediately landing the camp equipment & stores. On returning to the Brig in the evening heavy surf upon the beach for the […]
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Wednesday, Octr 12. Light airs & fine. N.E. 5.30. Weighed & made
sail.
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
…The natives we left in care of the garden have proved honest and are here to welcome our return and claim their reward. Our garden is looking well the seeds having nearly all come up.
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
Wednesday Octr 12. Off with a fair wind, but the Buffalo seems
to be in more inextricable confusion that ever; half the men
scarcely sober, the other half fit for nothing from the effects of the
gross intemperance in which they have been permitted to indulge
A fresh supply of poultry, & as if the poor emigrants had not
nuisance around them enough already, eight or ten half grown
hogs which the Captain purchased at Rio a bargain have been
added for their comfort & cleanliness. The Captain’s strict orders from
the Admiralty were to proceed without touching at any port unless
in case of necessity. On a very short allowance of water, we might
have gone on to the Cape; & it was to avoid a measure of this kind
that we came a couple of thousand miles & more out of our track to
Rio. And now what has been the first step taken by the Captain
on leaving this port? Why to do the very thing he came here professedly
to avoid, to reduce the allowance of water to each passenger and
emigrant one pint a day! Besides the mules & hogs, the pens are
filled up with his Excellency’s turkeys, guinea fowls, geese and
poultry, & they must have water; so to accommodate them, we
are thus treated! But this is quite consistent with his general conduct
which is daily becoming more offensive.
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Wednesday 12 October 1836
OCTOBER 12.-Although several times we had had very high winds and rough weather we had not as yet had anything that could be called a storm, but this day and the following night we were destined to experience such a one as the oldest sailor on board had not seen for many years, and in which they declared many a vessel would have foundered and gone down. In the morning there was nothing more than a stiff breeze, but about noon it rose considerably, and continued to increase till it became a complete hurricane. The vessel plunged and rolled from side to side in such a manner that those who had never been to sea can have no idea of, and the waves dashed over the ship with fearful violence. The captain, mates, and crew were upon the deck the whole night. For myself, I neither undressed nor lay down, but continued sitting at my cabin door, listening to and watching the progress of the storm, which from 9 to 12 o’clock was truly awful. The wind then lowered a little for about an hour, when it again rose with redoubled fury, and so continued till daylight. Then it ceased blowing with violence, but the agitation of the sea continued unabated for several hours.
Fortunately our lamp, which hung midway between the cabins, and which was usually extinguished at 10 o’clock, was on this occasion suffered to burn the whole night. I was very glad of such a companion, as I was sitting alone, being, I believe, the only passenger who was so foolish, it may be called, as to sit up. But I could not be satisfied otherwise, for had an accident occurred we would have been instantly overflowed, as, notwithstanding the hatches were close shut, the water frequently came over the decks with such force as to pour through the crevices in torrents. About midnight a sailor came down with a pail and a mop to soak it up, and again at 6 o’clock in the morning, when, as I thought, the storm being over, we would have no more for that time. I followed with a cloth, and made the floor as dry as I could, but had scarcely finished when a tremendous wave dashed through a square hole which had been left open, and not only completely deluged the part which the sailor and I had been so industriously endeavouring to dry, but also overflowed my own cabin, which till then had escaped such a disaster.
I could not help laughing, though I was well drenched myself, to see our work so quickly undone, but the only remedy was to do it again, which I did without the help of the sailor, who probably was not aware of what had happened.
I have often said that I would like to witness a storm at sea, but then I meant myself to be on dry land and only a spectator of the warring elements, for little did I conceive the terrors of such an awful scene. Yet, as it pleased God to bring us safely through the danger, I am not now sorry that I have heard the terrific roar of the winds and the rush of the mighty waters, though I candidly confess that I do not wish to hear them in like manner again. We had one satisfaction, however, and that was that the wind, though violent, was still in our favour, and sent us swiftly on.
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
On the Gale moderating which it did not until Monday 11th weighed & procee- -ded down the Gulf abreast of Yankalila we saw a boat standing out from under the land it turned out to be Mr Stevens C. Manager & Mr Morphett a gent- -leman arrived in Cygnet now lying at Nepean Bay & […]
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
Tuesday, 11th October
… About one we descried a boat steering for us and it was soon alongside when we found it contained little Stephens (our Nepean Bay friend) and Mr. Morphett a Land Agent who had come out in the “Cygnet” which vessel we were all delighted to hear had arrived safe on the 11th. of last month. They had, as we suspected, put into Rio for water. They have had two births on board, one since their arrival and one off the Island. Little Stevens has made the “[tooltip color=”grey” text=”Literally meaning honourable compensation, amende honourable was a public apology or reparation made to satisfy the honour of a person wronged.”]amende honourable[/tooltip]” since we left the Island by marrying a girl whom he had been living with in a discreditable manner. She is the sister of an industrious man by the name of “Bear” – the same whose wife became insane on the passage out.
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
OCTOBER 11.-A fine morning after a very rough night. I did not undress.
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
…At a quarter to six got under way, light variable winds from the S.W. At noon we observed a boat coming towards us; at two p.m. hove to for the boat, which brought Mr Morphett and Mr Stephens. From these gentlemen we learned the arrival of the Cygnet at Nepean Bay, and that great part of the stores were already landed, and that the party had begun to hut themselves. I now resolved upon going into Rapid Bay, and after landing some stores there, to send the brig to Kangaroo Island, to fetch over the Assistant Surveyors, that they might be employed in the survey on this side of the Gulf, during my examination of Port Lincoln…
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Tuesday 11 October 1836
Tuesday, Octr 11. Cloudy weather. Unmoored Ship, & crossed
royal yards. Received a number of banana, pine,
cactus, & other plants, as emigrants to South Australia.
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Sunday 9 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 9. Heavy showers. Walked with the Hindmarshes –
Attended Divine Service on board HM Ship Dublin (50).
The Governor introduced me to Sir Graham Eden Hammond.
Dined & took tea with the Hindmarshes in the cabin.
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Monday 10 October 1836
…we proceeded down the coast in search of the river the native woman had mentioned. At half past one p.m. [tooltip color=”grey” text=”To ‘heave to’ is to reduce a ship’s sails and adjust them so they counteract each other and stop the ship making progress. It is a safety measure used to deal with strong winds.”] hove to [/tooltip] abreast of the river, and sent Mr Pullen in the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A light, narrow ship’s boat that could be rowed or sailed.”] gig [/tooltip] to examine the entrance. At ten past two he returned, and reported his seeing a large river for some distance, but the bar of sand having such a surf over it that he was nearly upset. Again disappointed in my hopes of finding Jones’s harbour, I now felt fully convinced that no such thing could exist on this coast, at least as described by him. Captain Jones’s account says:
There are several other streams of fine water all along the eastern side of the Gulf St. Vincent. Sturt River is always open to the sea, but the others are closed by a bar of sand during the summer, through which the water filters. The inlet (mis-called by Sturt Sixteen-mile Creek) is a stream of fresh water, and is much deeper and wider than the rest. About fifteen or twenty miles north of this river, he discovered a fine harbour, sheltered by an island at its entrance; the southern passage through which he entered is about one mile wide, with three and a half to four [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip] water; he anchored here in three and a half [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip], and remained a day and a night. He did not land on the main, but was on shore on the island, which is about three miles in circumference; it is sandy, but there is an abundance of fresh water on it, as well as some streams running into the harbour from the main land…
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Monday 10 October 1836
Monday, Octr 10. Showery weather. Completed water again.
People busy washing clothes. Up tgt yards. Got
two mules on board & stowed them in the launch.
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Sunday 9 October 1836
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9.-The wind still fair, but the sea not so rough. It was remarkable that, with two exceptions (one of which was after we left the Cape, when the weather was too boisterous to admit of Divine Service on deck), Sundays have been very fine and generally calm, as if the winds and waves […]
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Sunday 9 October 1836
Sunday, 9th October.
Claughton and I again went on shore after dinner with our guns and killed sufficient fowl with yesterday’s sport for two meals. The great scarcity of fresh provisions from which most of us have suffered more or less could alone justify our thus breaking the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”For most Christians the Sabbath is Sunday, the day they celebrate their religion. For other Christians and for Jewish people the Sabbath is Saturday.”] Sabbath [/tooltip] and I feel confident that neither of us would have done it for mere pleasure. We had expended all our ammunition and were returning towards the ship with empty guns when we found ourselves close upon five native huts which as we had no means of defence created a little alarm. It turned, however, that they were vacant and we resumed our journey unmolested but at a rather quicker pace than we had hitherto walked…
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Monday 10 October 1836
9 p.m. Monday, 10th October. In getting under weigh early this morning we were obliged to ship one of our anchors which had got foul of the other. This accident detained us some time. We again made sail at 10 a.m. and ran back about fifteen miles along the coast to the Southward with the […]
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Sunday 9 October 1836
9 October-Still very unsettled weather; at noon calm, which lasted till eight p.m. Employed on board in writing, &c.
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Saturday 8 October 1836
7 p.m. Saturday, 8th October.
The wind having moderated a boat was sent off for the women – they had caught no game as they and the dogs were too hungry to hunt – a few roots were the only food they had had. After breakfast Claughton, Jacob, Pullen and myself landed with our guns and went up the banks of the river in search of wild fowl with which it was actually swarming but they were so wild and wary that we were very unsuccessful only having killed between us a duck and brace of teal. There are several lagoons, or what we should call marshes in England, in the neighbourhood of the river, in these wild fowl resort to breed and this is apparently breeding-season as we picked up a cygnet and young duck neither of them fledged. On our return we shot a brace of quails and a beautiful rail resembling our landrail in all but plumage which was much finer…
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Saturday 8 October 1836
Saturday, Octr 8. Fresh breezes & rainy. S.W. Employed watering.
9[?]. Completed water. Went Shopping with the Hind-
-marshes. Dined in the cabin. Mr Vidal came to tea.
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Saturday 8 October 1836
8 October-Very unsettled weather throughout the day; employed setting up topmast rigging and other jobs.
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Friday 7 October 1836
Friday, Octr [7]. Moderate & cloudy. 9. Rode to the Botanical Gardens
with the Hindmarshes. 4. Heavy rain. Empd watering.
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Monday 7 October 1836
Monday, Novr 7. Fresh breezes & squally. Wind W.S.W. Course S.E.b E. Miles run, 173 + 10332 = 10505. Lat. 37E28′ So. Longe 25E3′ East. Noon. Fresh breezes with a heavy swell. P.M. Do Wr.
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Friday 7 October 1836
OCTOBER 7.-The wind calmer, but the ship still going briskly on, making an average about two hundred miles in twenty-four hours. These scraps of nautical information I obtained chiefly from the captain, whom I did not scruple to question respecting anything that I thought worth recording, and as many of the passengers were aware that I kept a diary, they were usually willing to give me any information that lay in their power. Some of them did the same thing, I believe, but they were not so accurate in dates and many other circumstances, for I was applied to more than once after we arrived in Australia for information on several matters by our former shipmates, who confessed that they could not depend upon their own records.
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Friday 7 October 1836
Saturday Oct 7th The two Messrs Powell & Chandler have been engaged all the Week at Fencing, and assisting me with Stock, except with the Stores on Thursday ___ Saturday Oct 15th The Men have been engaged all this Week at repairing our Sheep Sheds, and helping me with the live Stock _____
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Friday 7 October 1836
…We landed our women the day before yesterday to hunt and this evening they made their appearance on the beach when four volunteers started in the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A light, narrow ship’s boat that could be rowed or sailed.”] gig [/tooltip] to bring them off but from the height of the rollers were unable to reach the shore. We fear the poor women may be suffering from hunger as they were scantily provided with provisions and we were to have picked them up at Yankalilah [Yankalilla], but provided they have been successful in hunting which I hope to God they have they will not be so badly off always having the means of kindling a fire.
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Friday 7 October 1836
7 October-Strong breezes and cloudy. At eleven, the gale increasing, veered away fifteen fathoms more on each cable, and she held on well during the rest of the gale, which was most violent about noon. Toward evening, the gale moderated, but it was very squally throughout the night.
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Thursday 6 October 1836
9 p.m. Thursday, 6th October. We got our anchor up shortly after 6 a.m. this morning and made a start for Yankelilah [Yankalilla] where we intended to take in water. The weather was fine for the first hour or so, but after an hour’s calm a fresh breeze from the N.W. sprung up which shifted […]
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Thursday 6 October 1836
Thursday 6th Weighed & stood down the Gulf about
[blank] miles below the last anchorage from the Mast head was
observed a stream apparently issuing from the hills and
discharging a little below us into the sea. I was immediately
despatched & found it to be small at the mouth but inc-
-reasing in size inland & apparently deep water which
I could not ascertain there being a heavy surf on could
not get the boat in it is now called the Onkaparinga
With every appearance of a Gale apparently not good
anchorage so as soon as I reached the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] the Colonel
bore up for the last anchorage & there rode out a heavy
gale not the first one which we had rode out here
From the good holding ground it was named Holdfast
Bay which it now retains.
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Thursday 6 October 1836
Thursday, Octr 6. Light winds & fine. Employed watering.
Attended the Hindmarshes to the Museum. Dined on shore.
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Thursday 6 October 1836
6 October…At six, got under way to run down the coast, as the native woman on board said there was still a large river more to the southward, which we had passed in coming up…
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
Thursday Oct 5th We were all employ’d this Day in clearing away the Road to the Beach, and getting the Stores up to my Cottag, that were out all last Night
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
Wednesday, Octr 5. Light winds & fine. Vble. Busy getting
bread & stores on board in flag-ship’s boats.
Spent the day on board & on shore with the Hindmarshes.
Breaker’s baby died while on shore, but was brought off.
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
9 p.m. Wednesday, 5th October.
I have not been on shore today having been busy [tooltip color=”grey” text=”casting lead for his gun”] casting balls[/tooltip], cleaning my gun and mending my [tooltip color=”grey” text=”underwear”] inexpressibles[/tooltip]. Claughton and Jacob who took their guns up the river this morning have returned with two brace and a half of Teal – the second fresh meal we have fallen in with this week. This worth recording as fresh meals come so few and far between and I am sorry to say some of the men are beginning to suffer for the want of them.
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Wednesday 5 October 1836
5 October-Light breezes and fine. Having much to do in observing several bearings from the ship, for the purpose of constructing my hasty chart of this side of the gulf, I remained at anchor, and sent Messrs Claughton and Jacob to trace the river up if they could, until they found fresh water in it. At one a.m. these gentlemen returned, and said the river about four miles from the mouth was fresh, it was then a very narrow stream bending to the N.E., and appeared to have its source in the plains-a circumstance that led me to suppose that more of these lagoons existed in that direction; and as every appearance indicated that these lagoons would be dry in summer, I felt convinced that the torrents from the mountains must be the fountain from whence they were now filled. My previous observations at sea,which I remarked often to Mr Field before I saw this country, were that all the vapours from the prevalent south-westerly winds would rest on the mountains here, and that we should, if we could locate this side the gulf, be never in dread of those droughts so often experienced on the eastern coast of Australia. And I was now fully persuaded by the evidence here shown, as well as the repeated collection of clouds, and rain falling on the hills even at this season of the year.
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Tuesday, Octr 4. Moderate breezes & fine. Running along the land towards Rio Janeiro. Wind Easterly. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 113 + 6589 = 6702. At 2.30. Anchored in Rio Janeiro harbour. Salu- -ted Rear Admiral Hammond, which was returned: also the flag of Brazil with 21 guns, which was returned. Moored the Ship. […]
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
4 October-Fresh breezes and fine; went on shore at nine a.m. to examine the plain. I cannot express my delight at seeing no bounds to a flat of fine rich-looking country with an abundance of fresh-water lagoons, which, if dry in summer, convinced me that one need not dig a deep well to give sufficient […]
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
OCTOBER 4.-A strong wind after a rough night, which was now increased to a complete gale. The sails had been all furled but two, and the ship rocked so much that everything which was not securely lashed was overturned and out of its place. The waves so incessantly broke over the vessel that it was almost impossible to stand on the deck. I ventured up for a few minutes to take a view of the raging sea, with its towering hills of water covered with foam, but grand beyond all description. I could have stood for hours to look at it, for I had now become too much accustomed to it to feel alarm. Although it inspired me with awe, it filled me with wonder and admiration.
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
9 p.m. Tuesday, 4th October.
Remained on board all day. Colonel Light has been four miles up the river with which he is much pleased – the water is very good and it abounds with teal and other wild fowl. On the plain to the right of it he discovered several fresh water lagoons some of which are nearly a mile in length. The mouth of the stream is Lat. 34.59.
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Tuesday Octr 4th. Anchored in this beautiful harbour at
last; fired a salute of 11 guns to the Admiral & 21 to the
Brazilian flag. Went ashore immediately with my family
and found all our friends at Rio well and glad
to welcome us. Our Colony has created great interest
here —
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Wednesday Oct 4th Mr Beare sent up a lot of Stores, which arrd at the Beach about 7 O’Clock P.M. but it being quite dark, they were obliged to be left there all Night _______
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Tuesday 4 October 1836
Tuesday 4th…The party returned about 3 o
clock reporting well of the country We now for the first time saw
the Native fires so they cannot be far off, it is reported by the
women accompanying us they are rather a fierce set about
here.
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday, 3rd October. Some of our Officers having imagined they saw the mouth of a larger river about two miles to the southward of us, we weighed anchor after breakfast and the Brig proceeded in the direction indicated while another party which I joined, walked along the shore a distance of six miles without finding […]
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Sunday 2 October 1836
Sunday, 2nd October. About 9 p.m. last night the wind again shifted to the S.W. and increased to a strong gale which has blown ever since. As the wind was right on shore we let go another anchor and veered away so much cable that this morning we ran foul of the surveying boat that […]
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Sunday 2 October 1836
Sunday, Octr 2. Fresh breezes & squally. 2. Wore Ship & stood to the Westward. Wind S.b W. Head West. Owing to the rain Prayers were read in the Wardroom. Many birds following the Ship today. Noon. Fresh breezes & fine. Miles run, 85 + 6423 = 6508. Late obs. 22E36′ So. Longe 39E37′ Wt. […]
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Sunday 2 October 1836
2 October-Strong gales and a heavy sea; down top-gallant yards, and struck topgallant masts, blowing hard all day. At eight p.m. more moderate; midnight, moderate.
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Sunday 2 October 1836
Sunday Octr 2. The breeze a little more favorable, and
our hopes of reaching Rio in a couple of days revived. No
public service to-day as there is a heavy sea rolling Mr Howard
read prayers in the Ward-room most of the Ladies & Gentlemen
were present. Neither the Governor nor any of his family I
am sorry to say, attended, although they were advised of the
intention. To-day the first albatross was seen. It was a
white one the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Wandering Albatross”] Diomedea exulans [/tooltip]…
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Monday 3 October 1836
3 October… at nine went on shore to examine the plains. And as two of my officers had said that they saw from the main-top something like a large river, only two miles from us to the southward, I resolved to walk there, and desired Mr Field to get under way and anchor the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip] at the mouth – as should this prove to be the long-sought-for harbour of Jones, I could run the brig in and carry on the survey there. And at this place from the same point, our party consisted of Messrs Pullen, Claughton, Woodforde, a gardener named Laws, with a spade, and the gig’s crew; the latter were desired to pull along shore, and stop at the mouth of the river. Messrs Claughton, Woodforde and Laws kept some way inland to examine the soil as they went along, while Pullen and myself kept along the beach. Thus prepared not to miss the river, we proceeded, but about two miles off, we found nothing but a rather wide indenture of the coast, and were also surprised at the brig’s not anchoring, we therefore walked on about five miles further, and finding nothing like a river, returned to where we landed. Mr Field seeing distinctly our movements on shore, came back to the former anchorage – and at four p.m. we all returned on board. I was much gratified at the report Laws gave me of the soil, he being a good judge. It was, he said, excellent, and the further inland he was certain it would be still more so.
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Sunday 2 October 1836
2nd Octr On waking this morning blowing hard a terrible hubbub on deck & heavy thumping under our quarter It was the Hatch Boat which had been anchored astern of the Brig and on veering got close to her damaged enough to give the Carpenter a week’s work. Field and Hill from the Mast head […]
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday Octr 3d Wind light, but favorable during the night. But from that strange want of confidence every now & then manifested in the correctness of our position, the Captain ordered the ship to be wore, and we were taken away from the land once more. After standing off for some hours we again made […]
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday, Octr 3. Light winds & fine. 8. Made all sail on a wind. Empd washing. 11. Saw the land on the lee beam. Noon. Miles run, 81 + 6508 = 6589. Lat. obs. 22E39′ So. Longe 40E39′ Wt. P.M. Light airs & fine. Sunset. Cape Frio, on lee bow, 20 miles.
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Monday 3 October 1836
Monday 3rd Octr Moderate the Colonel with a party of us landed to walk to the River seen yesterday while the Brig proceeded keeping at a same time look out on us & to send a boat when a signal was made. After a long & heavy walk in deep sand with no appearance of […]
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Colonel returned early this morning without having discovered any river, but there are many creeks running inland from the Channel in some of which the water is brackish…
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Saturday 1 October 1836
1 October…Running down the coast, I was enchanted with the extent of the plain to the northward of the Mount Lofty range; and as we had very little wind, our progress was slow, and consequently more time for observation; all the glasses in the ship were in requisition. At length seeing something like the mouth of a small river, and a country with trees so dispersed as to allow the sight of most luxuriant green underneath, I immediately stood in for it, and at fifteen minutes past four p.m. came to an anchor in three and a half [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip] in mud and weeds, about one and a half miles from the mouth of the river…
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Saturday, October 1. Fresh breezes & cloudy. Set top & tgt studg sails. Employed painting Ship & preparing for harbour. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 164 + 6259 = 6423. Lat. obs. Longe . P.M. Do Wr. 4. Wind became variable with rain. 6. In 2 reefs of topsails. Calms & variable winds, rain occly.
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Oct 1st This Morng I got G. Bates to Saw off part of a
Horn, from One of the Merino Rams, in order to get at a Wound
that was underneath it, and which the Animal recd on the
first Day of being Tether’d by plunging about to get his
liberty, when the Cord slip’d under his Horn and cut his Neck
severely, since which time it has contd getting worse, on acct
of not being able to apply any remedy, for the above mention’d
piece of Horn being right upon the part most Wounded —
Powell and Chandler have been engaged at the new Fence, Yestdy
and to Day, while G. Bates has been employ’d among the
Stock and sometimes at the Fence, during all the Week, but
this Eveng left us to accompany Mr Stephens, on a visit
to the Main-Land with which he is well acquainted _______
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Saturday 1 October 1836
we immediately weighed & stood down the Gulf about 4 we anchored off the mouth of stream with Mt Lofty bearing about E. by S. On landing found the stream small and salt water at least as far as we traced it being a distance of not above a mile from the shortness of time […]
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Saturday 1 October 1836
Saturday October 1. To-day at 12 instead of being at
anchor in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro we are still 230
miles distant from the coast of Brazil. The wind this
evening blows directly in our teeth. No one will envy the
Governor’s feelings at the announcement of a foul wind.
The misfortune is that many may suffer bitterly for one
man’s indiscretion.
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Friday 30 September 1836
Friday, 30th September. I have not left the ship today. Colonel Light and Pullen left early this morning. It has been blowing a fresh breeze from the North-West all day which has been very warm with a fine clear sky. The thermometer has risen to 700 in the cabin.
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Friday 30 September 1836
30th This morning the Colonel with 4 men & myself left the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip]
with the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A class of net fishing boats used on the Thames estuary. The Rapid’s boat was built specially for the Colonization Commissioners by W.T. Gulliver of Wapping”] Hatch Boat [/tooltip] & proceed to the sands. The depth of water we got
in the sea reach was quite enough for any purpose, at the extreme
of the second (a long & splendid reach) we bore away through
the channel I came though yesterday (now styled North
channel & eventually likely to become the chief anchorage) and
followed a large creek diverging from it towards the Hills
We carried good water for a considerable distance, at last
were effectually stopped by the shoals there being no good
landing or appearance of Fresh water determined on returning
& renew the examination after visiting Port Lincoln. __
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Friday 30 September 1836
30 September…At the end of this reach, a large inlet appeared, still keeping a southerly direction; but as I was anxious to examine to the eastward, we ran about one mile in that direction, when another creek appeared in a line with Mount Lofty; into this I bent my course, with the strong hope of finding it prove the mouth of some fresh water stream from the mountains… I landed for the purpose of tracing on shore the source or direction of this creek, but the swamp and mangroves checked me entirely, therefore I returned to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A class of net fishing boats used on the Thames estuary. The Rapid’s boat was built specially for the Colonization Commissioners by W.T. Gulliver of Wapping”] hatch-boat [/tooltip], which being now afloat, we got under way; and having now fully persuaded myself that no part of this harbour could be that described by Captain Jones, I resolved on returning to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip], to run down the coast again, and see if by any chance we could have missed so desirable a shelter; but my mind was so impressed with the capabilities of this place, that it was my determination, should we be fortunate enough to discover the other, to return again to this as soon as I had made the first necessary survey…
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Friday 30 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 30.-Last night exceedingly rough weather, and this morning the sea still running mountains high, but indescribably beautiful. Well did the psalmist say, “They that go down to the sea in ships and occupy their business in great waters, these men see the works of the Lord and His wonders in the deep.”
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Friday 30 September 1836
Friday, Septr 30th. Moderate & cloudy. Set royals & studg sails. Wind N.N.E. Course West. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 143 + 6116 = 6259. Lat. obs. 22E9′ So. Longe T.K. 35E5′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. In studg sails. Cape Frio at Noon distant 390 miles, & bearing, S.82EWt.
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Thursday 29 September 1836
29 September-Light airs and fine; employed all the forenoon in constructing my chart of the coast. At one p.m. Mr Pullen returned, reporting his entrance into the northern channel, &c.; no fresh water was seen, and the channel, though broad and deep at first, was reduced to one fathom water a short distance from the […]
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Thursday 29 September 1836
Thursday, 29th September…Pullen has returned with the surveying boat but is not certain as to the non-existence of a river, having seen a deep wide creek which he did not examine. Captain Light intends going himself tomorrow…
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Thursday 29 September 1836
29th Sept 1836 Directly I awoke wrote this imagine to your- -selves me sitting in the stern sheets of a boat, Claughton laying alongside me half asleep three men at our feet (but not in the streightest of positions in as comfortable a house as you could wish one man outside preparing breakfast which when […]
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Thursday 29 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 29.-This was Michaelmas Day, and the roughest we had yet seen since we had been on board. Not that there was much wind, but a tremendous sea burst over the decks and poured down the hatchways like a river, completely drenching all that came in its way. Our opposite neighbour, intending to go on deck, had just left his cabin when a wave came down over his head and gave him so complete a shower-bath that he was obliged to return and change his clothes; yet we had the satisfaction of knowing that the wind was fair and that we were proceeding at a rapid rate.
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Thursday 29 September 1836
Thursday, Septr 29. Moderate & cloudy Wr. All sail set, wind N.b E. Course West. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 170 + 5946 = 6116. Lat. DR. (no obs.) 21E42′ So. Longe 32E17′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. In royals.
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Thursday 29 September 1836
Sept 29th Chandler assisted by Powell, having been employd at his own Cottage for the last 3 Days, finish’d it this Eveng
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
28 September…; I was now full of hope that Jones’s harbour was at last found, and at one p.m. came to an anchor in our former berth, to await the arrival of Messrs Pullen and Claughton… At one p.m. Mr Pullen returned, reporting his entrance into the northern channel, &c.; no fresh water was seen, and the channel, though broad and deep at first, was reduced to [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] one fathom [/tooltip] water a short distance from the mouth. He further stated that there were two separate channels, thus forming two islands. This was so different to the account given by Jones that I felt a great disappointment…
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
Wednesday, Septr 28. Head West. Wind N.N.E. Trimmed sails, & in lee studg sails. 6. Saw Martin Vas rocks, North, about 7 leagues. Empd drilling gentlemen & the labourers. Noon. Moderate & fine. Miles run, 142 + 5804 = 5946. Late 21E12′ So. Longe 29E24′ Wt. P.M. Moderate breezes & fine.
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
Wednesday Septr 28th The wind now subsided into a calm, which enabled us to speak with a [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A schooner is a vessel with two masts, the main mast is taller than the forward mast and the largest sail on each mast is a fore and aft sail. “] schooner [/tooltip] on her way to Swan River. Her cargo contained amongst other things spirits of various kinds, equal in quantity to 100 puncheons which the Capt regarded as his most profitable investment. One 100 puncheons to a of 1600 persons! [sic] One puncheon to 16 persons – men, women & children! The cost of this importation would suffice to pay the passage of 100 labourers to the Colony, or thereabouts: a mode of expenditure infinitely more profitable to the Colony, seeing that the main cause of difficulty there, is the want of labourers. Capt Tobin, the commander of this [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A schooner is a vessel with two masts, the main mast is taller than the forward mast and the largest sail on each mast is a fore and aft sail. “] schooner [/tooltip] has resided in the Colony 4 years & says that the chief bane of the Colony is Drunkenness – to this he attributes greater political evils than the scarcity of labour for, he says, “the labourers we have there: from intoxication will scarcely ever perform three days work together”!
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
28 September, 1836 840 mile east of the Cape; still very fine. Shot two Blrds 10½ feet from extremity of Wings they were skinned for preservation – have taken 5 tons of Fish in a few hours and intend touching at St Pauls to take more.
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
9 p.m. Lat 34.46 Wednes. 28th We weighed at 9 a.m. and returned to our last anchorage where we came to at 1 p.m. The Surveying Boat kept close inshore but has discovered nothing new. There is a great doubt after all as to there being a river here as what was taken for the […]
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Wednesday 28 September 1836
Wednesday 28th Sept At ½ past 6 Claughton
4 men & myself with 3 days provisions left the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip]
and stood in for the shore…
About 2 o clock by following the shore close
found ourselves in a deep bight formed by the main…
After pulling about a
mile I found the flood which was now making
in a contrary direction to the one I wished to go
I was fully convinced of there being another outlet, we
pulled on, but the men were beginning to flag when
on rounding a point to our great joy at a considerable
distance a boat was seen under sail. This circumstance gave
me great pleasure as my conjecture on first
entering this channel was fully proved…
Now was prepared for supper could not go on shore to make a fire
so lit one in an iron pot, spread our awning (not unlike the tilt of a
waggon) and prepared to make ourselves snug. After getting some
tea (the greatest luxury a man can have after fatigue which I have
often proved) we now began to prick for the softest plank which necessary
being accomplished we lay down to sleep and awoke next mor-
-ning as much refreshed as if we had slept in the softest of beds.
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
Tuesday, Septr 27. Light winds, & light showers occasionally. Head S.b E. Wind East. 9.30. Altered course tod West, & made all sail before the wind for Rio Janeiro. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 103 + 5701 = 5804. Lat. 20E31′ S. Longe. P.M. Moderate & fine, a light shower occasionally. A large Ship standing […]
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
…Colonel Light is of opinion that we have passed all the rivers on this side of the Gulf and that the one he went to yesterday is the one described by Captain Jones – the distance we kept from the shore while running along it renders this highly probable. Colonel Light intends to retrace his steps and while the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] keeps at a safe distance the surveying boat is to run close in so that nothing in the shape of a river can thus escape us…At daybreak this morning I went with the boat to haul up the net which we had left in the water all night – we found it full of fish but our disappointment to see nothing but dog-fish and sting-ray. Of the latter, bad and coarse as it was, we ate heartily at breakfast. It is not unlike Skait and I have ordered some of it to be hung for a day or two to give it a fair trial. The former were a very disgusting looking fish resembling the dog-fish of the English shores in all except the head which was bony and in shape like a gurnet. Anything in the shape of fresh provisions is so acceptable that, uninviting as these fish are, we intend having some fried for breakfast tomorrow. We have had no kangaroo for some time not having had an opportunity of landing our women and dogs.
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
27 September…we came to anchor in three fathoms, about four miles from the shore, latitude 34°31′ south. From this position we could distinctly see the head of the Gulf as laid down by Flinders, and the opposite shore-nothing could look much worse, mangroves and very low swampy looking ground seemed to surround this bight. I now despaired of ever finding the beautiful harbour described by Captain Jones, but the jolly-boat with Mr Field was sent in shore to see if anything like an inlet could be found…
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
Tuesday Sepr 27. After obstinately persevering in taking the
ship out of our course for the last four days, the Captain has
once more altered his mind and we are again steering for
Rio. We have lost from four to five hundred miles by this
unaccountable and to my view unwarrantable proceeding,
but it is useless to complain or remonstrate. My position
precludes me from doing more than stating here what are
the opinions and feelings of every individual of common
sense on board, and I record them more in sorrow than in
anger. We are at present six or seven days sail from Rio;
had we not madly altered our course on the 24th we should
have been, to-day, with the wind as it has stood ever since,
within three hundred miles of our port
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
__ Jany 7th 1842 on looking over some papers to day I picked up an old memorandum book with the occurences at the time we were in search of the harbour and the morning when the incidents I have above related took place I really thought all had been lost in the unfortunate fire of […]
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Tuesday 27 September 1836
My Dear Sir,
…Nothing is yet done (or rather nothing yet appears to have been done towards paying a Dividend, but I assure you, that most deliberately & coolly, I at this moment consider the shares of the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”South Australian Company”] S.A.C. [/tooltip] to be worth more than I ever expected they would be in so short a time – In four or five days [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Deo Volente – God willing.”] (D.V.) [/tooltip] I shall go over to Cape Jervis with the view of Discharging the “Emma” on her arrival at “Yankalilla” & there forming forthwith an Agricultural Establishment, for which purpose I think of employing that Vessel to fetch up Stock. The John Pirie must keep at work fetching Sawn Timber as there is no timber here or there that is worth a rush for building. I wish I had 3 or 4 more such handy & roomy little Craft as the “Pirie” – I could employ them so as to return us a handsome Profit & I hope you will press upon the Board the propriety of sending out more whale ships – Nothing can be more suitable than the “Lady Mary Pelham”, she is exactly the thing. – Our two whalers intend to return here next May & take the Black Whale season (in which they can hardly help doing well) & then after refreshing – Proceed on an Eight months Cruise for Sperm & this is the course all our ships (except very large ones) had better pursue…
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Sunday 25 September 1836
25 September … I left the ship to examine what appeared to us a considerable inlet; the water shoaled very gradually, and about half a mile from our supposed inlet it became very shallow, and soon after the boat grounded. Seeing this could not be Jones’s harbour, which I was intensely anxious about, I resolved on returning to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] brig [/tooltip] and running higher up the Gulf, but on getting on board, Mr Hill, [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A merchant ship’s officer next in rank below the first mate; also known as a ‘second officer’.”] second mate [/tooltip], told me he had seen from the masthead a river to the southward of considerable breadth…
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Monday 26 September 1836
26 September… After going some distance and finding it did not accord with Captain Jones’s description of the harbour he discovered, I determined on running higher up the Gulf…
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Sunday 25 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 25.-Wet and stormy, but while we were on shore the weather was remarkably fine, the sky being cloudless in the daytime and at night the moon shining with peculiar brightness.
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Monday 26 September 1836
9 p.m. Monday, 25th September. Colonel Light has at length found the mouth of the river which is a considerable one, but he of opinion that there is a larger one higher up the Gulf described by Captain Jones and as it would detain us two or three weeks to survey this one properly he […]
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Monday 26 September 1836
Monday, Septr 26. Moderate & fine. Course S.S.E. Wind E.b N.
Very busy drilling both labourers & their masters.
A dozen little pigs born last night, eleven doing well.
Noon. Miles run, 124 + 5577 = 5701. Lat. 19E13′ South.
Longe Rio Janeiro, distant 890 miles, & bearing W.½So.
P.M. Light winds & fine. [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A dance performed by four couples. It became popular in England after 1813.”] Quadrilles [/tooltip] & country dances on deck.
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Monday 26 September 1836
Sept 26th Chandler was employ’d the Forenoon among the live Stock and Powell at the new Fence — G. Bates arrd from Kingscote at Noon, and bringing with him a few Rope Yarns
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Sunday 25 September 1836
Sunday, 25th September.
Both boats went away this morning to find the mouth of the river but they have as yet been baffled in their search – a deep channel was seen this afternoon from the mast-head taking a circuitous course nearly parallel with the shore and Field who took the jolly-boat to sound in it believes it to be that of the river, he does not, however, think that there is depth enough for the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A sailing vessel with two square-rigged masts.”] Brig [/tooltip] as in some parts of it he only found five feet at low-water, what the rise and fall is we have not ascertained. Colonel Light intends to make an early start tomorrow and I hope he will be more successful as it is far from pleasant lying at so great a distance from the land without being able to get a run. Bradley, our Boatswain, has been discharged from duty today for insolence to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”First officer directly coming under the command of the captain. Ships’ Mates were responsible for supervising watches, crew, navigation and safety equipment, and sometimes even served as the ship’s doctor.”] First-Mate [/tooltip]. This is the first rumpus we had had since we left England.
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Sunday 25 September 1836
Sunday, Septr 25th. Moderate breezes & fine wr. Course So. Wind E.b S. Revd C. Howard read prayers & preached after Muster by Divisions. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 124 + 5453 = 5577. Lat.17E21′ So. Longe 28E14′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr.
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Saturday 24 September 1836
…The [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A light, narrow ship’s boat that could be rowed or sailed.”] gig [/tooltip] has returned without having found a passage to the mouth of the river – the day being too far gone to admit of a further search this evening…
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Saturday 24 September 1836
Saturday, Septr 24th. Moderate & fine. Course So. Wind E.b S. Set roy- -als. Washed lower deck. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 120 + 5333 = 5453. Late 15E21′ So. Longe 28E12′ Wt. P.M. Fine wr.
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Saturday 24 September 1836
24 September-At eight a.m. light breezes with rain; at half past eight got under way, found our anchor broke nearly asunder in the shank, and we had neared the shore very much before the ship got way on her; at ten o’clock fresh breezes and hazy; at noon the weather clearer; at half past four […]
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Saturday 24 September 1836
Saturday Sepr 24. We have been making excellent way for
some days, and in the full hope of reaching Rio by Wednesday
or Thursday; but an announcement from the Captain to-day
that he has now determined to go to the Cape instead of to
Rio Janeiro has thrown us all aback once more. Never was
such an act of imprudence attempted; it can only be character-
-ized as sheer folly. Our course is now altered and we are to
be put on short allowance of water. This news has created
great dismay and the poor Governor’s popularity has fallen
below zero with every body. It is absolutely distressing to all
true friends of the Colony to witness such pranks. We must
go to Rio, for there is not water to take us to the Cape, even
on short allowance. The officers of the ship to-day are making
wry faces and exchanging most significant looks and
shrugs: No wonder!
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Saturday 24 September 1836
Sept 24th Powell and Chandler have been engaged all Yestdy
& this Day, strengthening the Sheep Sheds, and commenced putting
a good strong Fence round the two Paddocks as the temporary ones
that were made at our first coming here, have become of no use whatever
to keep in the Sheep…
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Friday 23 September 1836
11th to 23rd inclusive. I have been partially confined to my bed with illness – I have been also (in such time as I was able) very much engaged in arranging for the departure of the “John Pirie” &c, & these are the reasons why my Journal has been here neglected. – On the morning […]
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Friday 23 September 1836
Friday, Septr 23. Modte & fine. Course, S.W.b S. At 7. Wind came East, out all reefs, set royals & tgt studg sails. 8.30. In royals. Washed clothes. Noon. Do Wr. Light winds. Miles run, 145 + 5188= = 5333. Lat. 13E21′ So. Longe 27E30′ West. P.M. Light winds. Sunset. In 1st reefs, royals, & […]
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Friday 23 September 1836
At about 5 o’clock on Friday evening we also returned to the vessel, and the following morning again set sail for Australia…
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Friday 23 September 1836
23 September…Felt some disappointment at the appearance of the land, as it looked so luxuriant from the ship; we could find no fresh water; a lake of some extent on the high ground above the beach proved, on reaching it, to be salt. Although the ground we went over was not so good as the rest we had seen, yet the country a few miles inland appeared the same as that we had left…
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Thursday 22 September 1836
Sept 22d Chandler assisted by Powell, has been employ’d at his own Cottage Yestdy Forenoon and all this Day, but cannot finish it untill we get some Rope Yarns from Kingscote
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Thursday 22 September 1836
Thursday, Septr 22. Moderate & fine. Out all reefs, set royals & tgt studg sails. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 134 + 5054 = 5188. Late 11E17′ So. Longe 26E26′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. Wind S.E. Head S.W.b S.
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Thursday 22 September 1836
22 September-Rainy and foggy weather; having seen as much as I wished of this beautiful plain, at eleven a.m. I returned to the brig; the rest of the day employed in getting things on board.
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Wednesday 21 September 1836
Wednesday Sepr 21. A fine breeze from the South East, steering direct for Cape Frio,distant about 1100 miles. Our water will barely last us so far although there is an evident inclination on the part of the Governor to prefer the Cape. There is however no sufficient reason given for the preference, or for running […]
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Wednesday 21 September 1836
Sept 21st The Merino’s were found this Forenoon in the Woods, at a considerable distance from here, and on their arrival, were secured by Cords to Tethering Irons — At Noon the Boat arrd from the “John Pirie” with all my Traps, except 2 Casks of Iron &c, which are landed at Kingscote and in […]
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Wednesday 21 September 1836
Wednesday, Septr 21. Modte & squally. Found all the bees in the hive
dead. A bed of finely-powdered earth having been prepared
& manured in a box, was sown with peach, apricot, almond, &
grape seeds, some soaked & others not; some in the shell, & some
out of it: it was then closed up tight, light being admitted.
(they all failed.)
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Wednesday 21 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 21.-This day, Wednesday, about noon, we anchored in Simon’s Bay. A gentleman and lady in the cabin of the name of Hallett, with their family of three children and a servant, joined us in a boat, as they preferred going on shore with us rather than with the cabin party, on account of their family. Some black natives came alongside, and we engaged one of their boats. When we reached shallow water, there being no jetty, we were carried on shore in the arms of the men, to our no small amusement, and my daughter Mary was the first of our party to set foot on Africa.
There is a small town here, as they call it, which consisted entirely of one street, or, rather, of one row of houses at the base of tremendous hills and facing the water. The whole much resembled a newly-founded watering-place in England. The inhabitants were chiefly English, with some Dutch, but we saw a great many of the native Africans, quite black, with woolly hair. They took much notice of us, and seemed to be well a ware that we had just arrived from England.
We went to the Anchor Inn, kept by an Englishman; others to different inns and lodgings, of which there were several in the town. We partook of lunch as soon as we arrived, of bread and cheese and butter, with bottled ale, all of which were excellent. Never did I relish anything so much, after being so long confined to ship diet, and this seemed to be the case with everyone. We then took a walk, as the weather was very fine, and returned to dinner at 4 o’clock. This consisted of a boiled leg of mutton and rump steaks, with potatoes and cabbage, followed by a bread pudding and excellent pastry. Four bottles of Cape wine were also placed on the table, and everything seemed to be in a style which we did not expect from the appearance of the place, especially as the Anchor was not the principal inn, which was called the Clarence, and where we first went. Some of the cabin party having taken possession of the latter house, the landlady turned us out rather unceremoniously, at which we were not a little surprised, considering our number – fourteen in all. However, we immediately went to the Anchor, and there remained till Friday afternoon, and most likely were the better customers, as all the cabin party set off the same night for Cape Town, about twenty miles distant…
There was not much to he had at Simon’s Bay besides fruit as the shops, or stores, as they were called, contained but little stock…
A sort of caravan, resembling a London omnibus, drawn by six horses and driven by a Malay with a tremendously long whip, brought the captain and party from Cape Town. I heard one gentleman say that he rode in one drawn by fourteen horses, but they are invariably small, and would bear no comparison with those of England. We likewise saw a light wagon, to which were attached eighteen bullocks.
The oranges are very fine. I bought a hundred for three-and-sixpence, also a hundred of a smaller sort, called snatches, for a shilling. Mr. Thomas purchased a box of raisins, containing twenty-eight pounds, for four shillings. They were very sweet and without stalks. There was also a great quantity of dried fruit, such as apples, pears, and apricots, but we were too early for grapes and melons, as we arrived in the spring…
Mr. Thomas purchased some potatoes for seed, and a roll of canvas for a tent to supplement a large one which we had on board…I bought a quart bottle of genuine cayenne pepper for seven-and-sixpence, some of which I have to this day.
I mention these things to apprise those who may have forgotten to provide themselves with some such necessary articles, and are fortunate enough to put in at the Cape of Good Hope, that they may be obtained at Simon’s Bay on reasonable terms, and I believe still cheaper at Cape Town. No doubt, in the lapse of time since we were there (nearly twenty-eight years) everything has been greatly improved and the stores are supplied with a greater variety.
On the whole we enjoyed ourselves very much, and so well satisfied was our landlord that before we parted he insisted upon our partaking of a bottle of champagne, and wished us a good voyage and prosperity in our new settlement. We had some difficulty in making him understand where it was to be, for at first he imagined that we were bound for Van Diemen’s Land, South Australia being then a new name for the colony, and I believe not till we arrived at the Cape had the inhabitants heard of such an intended settlement.
I must here mention the wine called Constantia, which, as our landlord told us, can only be produced in two or three vineyards within a small district where the soil is favourable to the growth of a particular grape from which it is made. It is very rich in flavour, and was indeed a treat to us. It sold at two shillings per bottle. The ordinary Cape wine was sold at a penny per glass. Mr. Hallett’s and our men were on shore drinking it as they did beer in England. It got the better of them, and they continued drinking and smoking nearly all night, making such an intolerable noise that we could not sleep. However, they seemed to enjoy themselves, like their masters, and the next day we treated them to a good breakfast and dinner, with sufficient wine to make them comfortable without being tipsy. They returned to the ship highly gratified.
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Wednesday 21 September 1836
21 September-Very warm; out surveying. The flies this day for the first time appeared in swarms and were dreadfully annoying.
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
Sept 20th Chandler commenced erecting himself a Cottage, and
to Day was assisted by Powell, The Merino Sheep having
strayed away Yestdy Eveng, G. Bates and his two Women
have been employ’d seeking them all this Day, without success __
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 20.-This morning the cliffs of Simon’s Bay were distinctly visible, and gradually increased on the sight. A lofty range of mountains stretched on each side of us, and formed a grand spectacle, and, of course, an agreeable one to all on board, it being exactly twelve weeks since we left London.
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
On the morning of the 20th the “Duke of York” & the “Lady Mary Pelham” sailed with a fair wind for Hobart Town – I parted as I had allways been, very friendly with them both – gave them such instructions, advice, & assistance as I was able – & to the Duke of York I fired a salute of 15 guns in ½ minute time – (I had but one cannon, but it was worked in excellent style) She hove to to receive my salute & returned 7 guns the other ships all hoisting their [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A flag or standard, especially a military or naval one, indicating nationality. A national flag.”] Ensigns [/tooltip] to the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The flag of the South Australian company, which was said to have a Union Jack in the top left corner and three red kangaroos on a blue background.”] Company’s Flag [/tooltip]. Her parting signal which she hoisted when at a long distance was – “Peace be with you”. I answered it from my heart & I fervently pray God’s Blessing may rest upon our Colony. Captain Martin sails for Hobart Town in a day or two & I am busy preparing for him, besides all which I am going [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Deo Volente – God Willing”] (D.V.) [/tooltip] to be married to morrow & have a few little arrangements to make for that Solemn Ceremony.
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
20 September-Out surveying, and walked up the valley; running in a south-easterly direction, between very high hills. I was enchanted with this spot, it put me in mind of some of the orchards in Devonshire, and I found it plentifully supplied with fresh water. From this valley we ascended the hills, crossed over to the seacoast, and returned to our tents; the whole distance fine soil.
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
This 24 hours gentle breeses from the NE fine weather at 7 fired a gun a signal for sailing and hove in some cable at 9 hove the anchor off the ground but found the vessel canted the rong way gave the ship cable again and got out the cadge to cant the ship hove […]
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
20th Septr
…We had no shaving on crossing the line – We
passed it in the night at about 12 o’clock – Some of the most
learned affirm they felt the shiver on its entry to the Southern
Hemisphere. All the lights in the ship except the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Ships were equipped with magnetic compasses that were kept on deck in a binnacle that could be illuminated at night by means of a lamp.”] Binnacle lamp [/tooltip],
are all put out at ten o’clock at night…
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Tuesday 20 September 1836
Tuesday, Septr 20. Moderate, & squally occasionally. Busy [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A military exercise in rifle handling.”] drilling [/tooltip]
the labouring emigrants in the use of the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A muzzle-loaded, smooth bore long gun, fired from the shoulder.”] musket [/tooltip].
Noon. Fine weather. Miles run, 132 + 4788 = 4920. Lat. 7E48′ South
Longe 23E58′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. Wind S.E. Ship’s head, S.W.b S.
Fine moonlight night. [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A dance performed by four couples. It became popular in England after 1813.”] Quadrilles [/tooltip] & country dances on deck.
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Monday 19 September 1836
19th Septr Mr Slater, I have found him to be very kind to
me he has taught me many useful things – he and Mr Williams
I think are my greatest friends – he is so very much liked by our
cabin passengers that he sleeps and very often takes his meals in
our cabin – he is a very different kind of person to what he was
when I saw him at Gravesend, he has always a pleasant word for
everybody – I am invited every Thursday (by Captn Duff &
Wife) to dine in the 1 st cabin – an honour which very few are
allowed…
We manage to make bread now though we
have to make the yeast – there are several ways of making it;
but Mr Williams’ proves to be the best. We have five messes in
the second cabin for I am sorry to say they very much disagree.
Give my love to all dear friends – I should have written to Kate,
but I am pressed for time – how is she and how is the baby – has
it been christened yet – by the by there has been a child born
on board by a Mrs Parcel a steerage passenger. Mrs Brown was
proposing that something should be done for him and I think so
too…
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Sunday 18 September 1836
18 September-Sunday, calm and cloudy, employed all the early part in sending necessary things on shore; at half past ten, went myself; being Sunday, we worked only as absolutely necessary; rain all night.
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Monday 19 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 19.-A tremendous sea, though but little wind, which is usual in these parts. This evening there was a faint glimmering of the Cape of Good Hope. It appeared like a cloud at a great distance, and none but those who had been to sea before would have taken it for land.
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Sunday 18 September 1836
…in the forenoon
the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The flag of the Bethel Union, a seaman’s missionary organisation with the word [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The flag of the Bethel Union, a seaman’s missionary organisation with the word Bethel (House of God) blazened across a blue background with a star above and a dove with olive branch below. The flag was used by various organisations such as Angas’ British and Foreign Sailors’ Society to indicate that a church service was taking place aboard a ship in harbour.”] bethel [/tooltip] (House of God) blazened across a blue background with a star above and a dove with olive branch below. The flag was used by various organisations such as Angas’ British and Foreign Sailors’ Society to indicate that a church service was taking place aboard a ship in harbour.”] bethel flag [/tooltip] being hoisted ceveral came on board with
which three females Mrs Bear who came out with us was
one being restored nearly to her right mind and to her children…
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Sunday 18 September 1836
The Sunday School again commenced, but there is
a luke warmness upon the subject which is truly lamentable.
It is however impossible to interfere. Education, and the
religious instruction of the young are unhappily not regarded
by those in the highest places as of paramount importance
to good government or the social well-being of our colonists.
Mr Fisher and I deriving some consolation from the reflection that
on the Legislative Council more than any one individual,
and on the right direction of public opinion by means of the
press, will depend the due developement of its energies and
the administration of impartial and well digested
laws. It would indeed be a matter of lasting regret if the good
intentions of the supporters of the Colony should either not have
fair play, or be thwarted by the wrong-sighted obstinacy
of Captain Hindmarsh, who, whatever may be the amount
of honest purpose in his profession, is, (I deeply regret to perceive
it, but the truth must be spoken) daily displaying capabilities
for any thing but the science of discreet government.
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Sunday 18 September 1836
We are now within 400 miles of the Cape of Good Hope, the
passengers are all expectation…
You ask me to describe my chum Mr Williams
– well then – he is middle sized – wears a black wig – has red
eye lashes – he is very kind to me indeed as well as to everybody
else – in the next cabin is Mr Thomas though a very goodnatured
man, is nevertheless very hot-tempered; though I have never felt
his wrath he does not appear to be liked very well by the Mediterranean
Passengers (as the steerage folks call us). Mr Everard and
family come next. Mr Everard is a very nice quiet man,- but his
wife just the contrary – the next is Mr and Mrs Lewis they are
very quiet, but Mrs Lewis does not appear to be very respectable
– the next is a Mr Ward and Mr Deacon – Mr Ward is a very
goodnatured, humorous man of about 30 years of age rather
corpulent – he is a lawyer – Mr Deacon is a rather old man very
changeable and fidgetty – Mr Nantes and Mr Skipper are the
next. Mr Nantes is a quiet young man – Mr Skipper is a person
I don’t know very much about on account of his taking his meals
in the 1 st Cabin.
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Monday 19 September 1836
Monday, Septr 19. Modte weather, squally at times. Rose at 5, & saw
the Southern Cross for the first time since 1824. Wind
S.E. Head S.W.b S. Noon. Moderate & fine. Miles run 125 + 4663
= 4788. Late obs. 5E50′ So. Longe 6E. A [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A dance performed by four couples. It became popular in England after 1813.”] quadrille [/tooltip] on the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The quarter deck was the deck between the main mast and the back of the ship.”] quarter deck [/tooltip].
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Monday 19 September 1836
Sept 19th The Men arrd here at Noon, and were accompd by
Powells Wife, and Chandlers Children, they were all employ’d the
remainder of the Day, getting up their Chests, Bedding &c, to this
Station from the Beach _______
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Sunday 18 September 1836
Sunday, Septr 18. Mode & squally. In tgt sails. Set Do. 10. Fine. Performed Divine Service. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 116 + 4547=4663. Lat. 4E00′ So. Longe 21E31′ Wt. P.M. Mode & drizzly occasionally. Saw a large shark. Sunset. In 2d reefs of topsls.
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Monday 19 September 1836
… I took a boat and
went to the new setlement wher the Cignet landed her
emegrants they have twelve military tents erected and
all the emegrants emplyd some building a store house
out of bussh and Captn Lipson building a bussh house
for part of his large family some cooking and so on
we dined with Dr Wright and family in his tent all
in this setlement seems to be carryed on with experdition
and order and serbordernation we returned to the other
setlement I found three of my crew drunken Clavil
Lidard and Spratly we had no disturbance with them
we had a meeting and conferance spoke mostly on
drunkeness I knew in one ship of three cases men loosing
thier lives through drunkeness
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Saturday 17 September 1836
17 September-Calm and fine; at nine, Messrs Pullen, Claughton, Jacob and Woodforde (surgeon) landed to walk to Yankalilla. I went in my gig to examine an inlet about two miles to the northward, where I appointed a meeting with these gentlemen, desiring Mr Field to get under way and proceed to Yankalilla as soon as he could. On landing at this little inlet, which I shall call Finniss Valley, I found a little cove fit to moor a vessel of 70 or 90 tons, in any weather, but there is only room for one; and there is a beautiful stream of fresh water running into the sea, where a boat may approach to within fifty yards of a good spot for filling water casks. On joining my shipmates on the rising ground above, we beheld a valley three times as extensive as the last, and equally rich in soil; there is abundance of wood all the way, yet not so thick but that agriculture might be pursued without the trouble of clearing. From this we walked to Yankalilla, over undulating ground of good quality, and wooded in the same manner as before mentioned; passing several little runs of water which are dry in summer, sometimes edging our way down to the sea-at others, bending inland, mounting and descending as the ground presented itself: but having just landed, we were all quite satisfied when the walk was over. At two p.m., I went on board and sent the tents on shore.
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Saturday 17 September 1836
Saturday, Septr 17. Moderate & rainy. 7. Wind S.E. Head S.W. 8. Mode & fine. Set ftmstudg sail, flyg jib & royals. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 111 + 4436 = 4547. Late 2E20′ So. Longe 20E20′ Wt. Wind S.E. b S. In ftmstudg sail. Sunset. In 2d reefs of topsails. Fair wind.
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Saturday 17 September 1836
This 24 hours gentle breeses from the NWd AM prepared to git
under weigh at noon unmoored ship and got under weigh
came to anchor faceing the setlement in 4 [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A fathom is a measure of depth in the imperial system. One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.83 metres.”] fathoms [/tooltip] water
cleared the decks down and prepaired for sabath…
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Saturday 17 September 1836
Sept 17th Bates & Chandler have been busy at my Cottage
since Tuesday last, and to Day were assisted by Powell, in
the Eveng they all went to Kingscote, leaving me again quite alone
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Saturday 17 September 1836
From Rapid Bay we proceeded to a spot about nine
miles to the Northwd (up the Gulf) where we remained 4 days the
native name was Yankalila which the Colonel retained.
We were equally pleased with this spot as Rapid Bay. The
country presenting a park like appearance in rather disorder
from want of attention many spots completely ready for any agri-
-cultural purpose. We remained here but a short time the Colonel
being anxious to complete his examination. The first anchorage
after Yankalila we were greatly deceived in the appearance of
the country on a close examination which gave rise to the name
it now retains (Deception Bay)…
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Saturday 17 September 1836
I have purposely avoided making a memorandum of the conveniences of our cabin until I should have had time to test them practically; it is now more than ten weeks since we came on board, and considering the time sufficient to enable me to ascertain their relative worth, with a view to the guidance of others who may follow my steps, I shall now describe them and the cabin itself. The cabin I occupy is the larboard stern cabin, besides the two stern windows, there is a ventilator on the deck about three feet in diameter which however is divided between mine and the adjacent cabin. Thus I have a sufficiency of air and light for all purposes. But there is an advantage in the possession of a stern cabin far beyond that of ventilation or even abundance of light: viz. the power of abstracting oneself from the company of the rest of the passengers. In our case, the companion ladder is between the stern cabin and the cuddy, so that when the door is shut, it is impossible to hear the never ceasing conversation in which some of the party are sure to be engaged. To be alone is the greatest luxury which we enjoy on board; were I the occupant of a cabin adjacent to the cuddy, I verily believe, that instead of passing my time agreeably, I should be suffering from a brain fever caused by the continual din and noise of my worthy fellow passengers…
In the list of ‘cabin comforts’ a filter stands preeminent. The water on board the Africaine is I should think as good as is generally found in ships; but I, who however am to a great extent a water drinker, should much feel the want of this little machine. Mine was purchased of James in the Poultry, and filters very brightly. By way of protection it is enclosed in the wickerwork.—I have two cabin lamps, and one candlestick: they are all useful. The candle is enclosed in the candlestick, and is forced up to the socket with a spring, and the whole has a universal joint to accommodate itself to the motion of the ship. By this I write andread. The night lanthorn was bought of Miller in Piccadilly, and is convertible into a variety of purposes: it is a dark lanthorn, a hand lanthorn, a chaise lamp, & a night lamp. The other is a nursery lamp upon Davy’s principle, with a kettle and saucepans to fix on the top: this afforded Harriet during her illness at the commencement of the voyage excessive comfort; by its means in about fifteen minutes I have been able to supply her in the course of the night with a cup of tea or arrow root, things which could not have been obtained by any other means… at all events I would recommend a few things to be procured for use in the cabin, amongst which I would name the following articles: — half a dozen bottles of brandy of the best quality in case of sickness; some dried fruits (such as figs, almonds & raisins, prunes) by way of dessert, a luxury which of course the ship does not provide, but which becomes almost a necessary to health if the voyage is undertaken at a time of the year when potatoes will not keep; some of Gamble’s preserved provisions, especially mutton broth and vegetables in the smallest canisters; some of [?Lemsan’s] biscuits in tins; and one each of sago, arrow root, and prepared groats for gruel…
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Friday 16 September 1836
Sept 16th Powell having been engaged at his own Cottage, all the Week, finished it this Eveng
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Friday 16 September 1836
Friday. Septr 16. Moderate & fine. At 3, a sailor heaving the lead in the main chains, fell overboard, & it was some time before he was missed; the ship was then hove to, & a boat lowered to look for him; but although a good swimmer, he could not be found: blue-lights & muskets […]
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Friday 16 September 1836
Friday Sepr 16 Gloom seems to be daily becoming more
the natural element of the Buffalo. In place of the
mirth which last evening promised us, a most [tooltip color=”grey” text=”a gloomy state of mind.”] melancholy [/tooltip]
crossing the line we have had. One of the sailors a young
man named Story, the only support of a widowed mother,
fell overboard last night while heaving the lead, [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The action or process of measuring the depth of water with a sounding line, a line marked at intervals of fathoms and weighted at one end. A fathom is a unit of length equal to 6 feet (1.83 metres).”] sounding [/tooltip]
for a shoal marked in the Admiralty Charts but which is in
fact generally believed not to exist. He was missed in a few
minutes after the accident had taken place, and a boat
was lowered, but he was lost. To add to the misery of his
fate the poor fellow was an excellent swimmer, and
most probably suffered a horrible & lingering death. It
seems astonishing that the readiest and most efficient
means of salvation in such cases should not have been thought
of, and that the life buoy was not let go: it is provided with
a light and he might have seen it and swam to it, while
he could not see the boat. Since this accident the Sentry on
the poop has received orders to slip the life buoy at the cry
of “a man overboard”, without waiting for orders from the
officer of the watch. This might have been done before,
it may however yet be useful.
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Friday 16 September 1836
16 September-We did not get all on board before two p.m., and from the variable winds and dark cloudy weather coming on, I did not think it right to get under way.
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Friday 16 September 1836
This 24 hours light winds and rain at times employd
prepairing for sea…
… bless the Lord O my soul may my beloved wife and children
be the care of the all wise all mercifull Creator Redeemer & santifier
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Thursday 15 September 1836
9 p.m. Thursday, 15th Sept.
After we had turned in last night Captain Martin came on board on his way to Kangaroo Island from his trip up the Gulf. He gave us a very favourable account of the country and the few natives he met with were peaceable – but as we are going the same road in a day or two we shall be able to judge for ourselves. After breakfast Martin, Hill and myself went on shore to the tents and had not long been there before our Sealer returned from Encounter Bay bringing with him eight of the natives who promised to take care of our garden. These men are much the same in appearance and belong to the same tribe as the two we saw on the Island. There were no women with them except those belonging to the Sealers. It appears that the small-pox commits great ravages against them as three of them were deeply pitted and one has lost an eye from the same disease. Two of them had congenital malformations – the most singular – of the arm, there being in the place of that useful member a shrivelled stump not more than ten inches in length with three small appendages the rudiments of fingers at the end of it. They are all more or less tattooed in a very rude way, the principal incisions being on the back and two very large ones of a similar shape over each blade-bone. Their faces are free from these mutilations which are made with pieces of flint. This tribe is a very small one – a great number being carried off yearly by disease and a still greater number being put to death shortly after their birth. They hold a …[pages torn from journal]
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Thursday 15 September 1836
At last Cooper returned with
about a dozen of the tribe some of them fine looking
fellows & made themselves very useful there was given
them biscuit & Soldiers old clothes of which they were very
proud & in the evening by way of expressing their joy
at the white mans arrival they danced a corrobory. __
Ye ladies could you see a corrobory you’d blush
but now in the colony it is gone out of fashion
So I shall imagine I’m speaking to the Colonial
Cadet & give a brief but imperfect sketch of
the above dance. The men some supplied with a
couple of sticks are ranged near a few small embers
which is sparingly fed by one of the women who are
seated on the ground with their legs tucked under them [something?]
All’a Tuck resting on their Knees a skin (of some sort
chiefly Kangaroo)which they beat with their hands. It commences
with a low monotonous chant beating the stick’s the
dancers at the same time moving in slow
& [keeping?] very regular time at last it becomes loud and furious
but with every regularity maintained The contortions
of the body are numerous and all being in Natures only
dress, with the dull blaze emitted from the few embers
the noise to a New comer it exites almost a degree of terror & might
imagine a few of the inhabitens of Pandemonium
had broken loose. In some case they work themselves
up to such a state of exitement that the countenance
is truly terrific, but yet how soon they calm down the
next moment you’d not imagine the being before
you was the same.
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Thursday 15 September 1836
Thursday, Septr 15th. Moderate & fine. Wind S.S.E. Head S.W. Miles run, 102 + 4228 = 4330. Noon. Do Wr. Lat. 0E21′ No. Longe 17E50′ Wt. 6. Quadrilles & country dances on the quarter-deck. At 7.30. The approach of Neptune being notified by the man look- -ing out on the forecastle, the mizen topsail was […]
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Thursday 15 September 1836
Thursday September 15. Crossed the line this afternoon
thermometer at 74. In the evening the ship was hailed
by Neptune, who announced his intention of paying us
a visit on the morrow. The Water sprite then burned his
blue light, sent up his rocket, and sailed gaily away in
his lighted car. Great preparations are making for the
Saturnalia, and amusing pictures are drawn by those
who have undergone the process of lathering shaving and
ducking for the comfort and edification of the uninitiated.
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Thursday 15 September 1836
This 24 hours gentle breeses from the southd at day light sent two boats for water at 3 they returned with 9 casks got off two boat loads of wood carpenter repairing the spare boat the painter repareing the boats oars In the morning being foreward on deck in looking down the fore hatchway swareing […]
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Thursday 15 September 1836
15 September-Fine weather, employed in surveying. My servant, Cooper, who had volunteered to go to Encounter Bay, returned with a tribe of natives, who soon became intimate with our men. Having now spent as much time as I could well spare in this little paradise, I made preparations for returning on board; and at two p.m., sent the surveying instruments on board, and at four embarked myself, leaving Messrs Pullen, Claughton and Jacob, and the men on shore, to embark the following day with the tents, &c. The natives were engaged to remain and take care of our garden.
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
This 24 hours light winds and squally attended with calms employd cutting wood and doing other nessary work carpenter repareing the boats we found some fine chaulck and procured some for Ships use In the evening had family service read part of 16th chapt of St John with commentry
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
Wednesday 14th September.
This morning, the weather being beautiful, Field and I started after breakfast with our guns and penetrated nearly three miles into the interior which considering the height of the hills we found a very long and fatiguing walk. We met with no sport but the views from the top of the hills were beautiful. The soil in the valleys is excellent but that on the hills is shallow and mixed with rock and stones of many kinds, viz: lime-stone, coarse slate and an inferior kind of marble. We found some fine Cypress and Cedar trees, likewise daisies similar to those found in English meadows. Flinders mentions a peculiar feature of the country which we found very striking in today’s excursion. I allude to the combustion which a great part of the trees have undergone and which I can only attribute to the passage of the Electric fluid and not, as some have said, to the burning of the bush by the natives. My reasons for coming to this conclusion are first, that the same phenomenon exists in Kangaroo Is. Where there are no natives: and secondly, that the trees thus found are for the most part isolated, there being no traces of combustion around them – indeed I have in many instances found a large tree reduced almost to charcoal surrounded by and close to a cluster of others in a state of vigorous health. There are many speculations on this subject which will be, I doubt not, soon set at rest. If lightning had been the cause we shall most probably see its most recent effects in the summer and our intercourse with the natives will satisfy us as to its being their handywork or not. We dined at the tents and then came off.
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
Sept 14th Mr Stephens paid us a visit to Day, accompd by the Captain of the Cygnet, and left 2 She Goats, and 2 Sow’s belonging that Vessel, to recruit here a while _____
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
14 September-Light breezes and very cold.Employed in taking angles.
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
Wednesday Sept. 14. Today it was ordered by the Governor that
the Emigrants should be instructed in the manual exercise.
In order that no objection should be made, the Gentlemen
passengers were first asked to [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A military exercise in rifle handling.”] drill [/tooltip], and they agreed to
do so with great good nature. The Emigrants were then
paraded and went through their exercise very respectably
for a first attempt. They are to be [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A military exercise in rifle handling.”] drilled [/tooltip] regularly by
the corporal of Marines until they are perfectly au fait.
That an armed body should exist for the enforcement of
the laws in the event of popular or individual resist-
-ance may perhaps be necessary, but the idea which
appears to exist in some quarters, that they are required
as a means of defence or aggression against the natives
cannot be too soon repudiated. A hostile shot shall never
be fired against them if I can help it either by pen
or print; the proper force after all, would be a small
body of regular soldiers say 25 or 30, to be paid by the
Colony, and liable to do the requisite duty.
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
Nepean Bay Kangaroo Island 14th Sepr, 1836 I am sure you will be pleased to hear that we arrived here safely the day before yesterday after a long but calm and pleasant passage. We got off the Western Coast of Kangaroo Island the beginning of last week after a favourable run from Rio, but had […]
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Wednesday 14 September 1836
Wednesday, Septr 14. Modte & fine wr. Wind S.S.E. Head S.W. Miles run, 92 + 4136 = 4228. Noon. Do Wr. P.M. Mode & fine. Late 1E40′ No. Longe 16E46′. Sunset. In 1st reefs of topsails. 10. Small rain.
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
September 13th I have been very unwell for three or four days – splitting headache & rheumatism. Today however being quite recovered, I wrote or rather finished a letter to my Mother. The wind has been still favorable, and we now confidently expect to spend next Sunday at the Cape. The number of persons on […]
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
Tuesday, Septr 13. Modte & fine. Head W.S.W. Wind South. Aired the bedding. The gentlemen emigrants were subjected to their first military training. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 108 + 4028 = 4136. Late 2E28′ No. Long 15E25′ Wt. Commenced to drill the emigrant labourers. 6. Quadrilles on the quarter-deck.
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
Sept 13th Chandler & Bates were engaged at my Cottage, and Powell at his own, the whole of this Day _______
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
13 September-Fresh breezes and squally, with hard rain; being anxious to get on with my work, Mr Pullen and I sallied forth, but the weather was so thick and boisterous we could do very little.
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
10 p.m. Tuesday, 13th September I have spent this day much in the same way as yesterday i.e., in the forenoon preparing fishing gear and the afternoon in making use of it and have been equally successful. “The Parrot-Fish” has been eaten by some of the crew and has proved wholesome.
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 13.-Going at ten and a half knots an hour.
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
This 24 hours light wind and [tooltip color=”grey” text=”A squall is a sudden, sharp increase in wind speed.”] squalls [/tooltip] with rain
employd cutting wood and other nessary work the carp
enter reparing the boats
In the everning had family worship read the word
of god with singing and prayer
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Tuesday 13 September 1836
Tuesday September 13. This morning the south east trade
wind reached us and we are now within 100 miles of the equator.
A conversation with the Governor, Mr Fisher, & Mr Jickling
to-day on the subject of the establishment of a Public
Library in the Colony, regarding which both Mr Fisher and
myself are exceedingly anxious. The governor is inclined
to throw cold water on our project. “It is of no use,” said he,
“what good will books do our Colony?” but I strongly
suspect neither Fisher nor myself will be deterred from
doing our conscientious duty by such an opinion. The
ship continues to be made a carpenter’s shop, – hot-houses
dog-houses and other sorts of houses for the Captain
are in progress, and there is from morning to night such a
complication of noises, hammering, sawing, planing,
that the Ladies & passengers and Emigrants generally
suffer dreadfully from these various annoyances.
Little regard indeed is paid to their comfort at any
time: poor Mrs Fisher has the carpenter’s shop precisely over
her bed, while that part of the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”Technically called a stern deck, the poop is an exposed partial deck on the stern (rear) of a ship. It forms the roof of the stern or ‘poop’ cabin.”] poop [/tooltip] under which are the
cabins of the Governor’s family is carefully secured from
noise by being covered with trusses of hay. The Governor’s
dogs are allowed to run loose, bite, as they have done, the
Emigrants & crew at their pleasure, and to perform all
manner of beastlinesses where they have a mind; while
the dogs of the passengers are sedulously cooped up.
In a man-of-war it seems the Captain’s property and
chattels are always especially attended to; those belonging
to others must take their chance – that is the rule. It is
a pity Governor Hindmarsh should act upon it. Public
respect & popularity are not usually acquired by decided
acts of selfishness.
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Sunday 11 September 1836
Anchored in Nepean Bay 11th Sep. Kingston
received a letter from Coll Light acquainting
him that after forming his settlement and
landing the stores at Fresh water River, He
was to proceed in the Cygnet with the Surveyors
to Port Lincoln.
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Monday 12 September 1836
Sept 12th At Noon Bates & Powell came from Kingscote
having been there all Night, and were accompd by a Man named
Chandler, who came to fill the place of Mitchell, in the After-
-noon Powell was assisted by Chandler building his own Cottage
and Bates was engaged along with myself, looking for the
Merino Sheep, which had stray’d away, but found them again
before it was quite Dark _________
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Sunday 11 September 1836
Sunday, Septr 11. Modte & squally, rain at times. Head S.E. Wind S.S.W. The weather prevented the performance of Divine Service. Noon. Do Wr. Miles run, 80 +3829 = 3917. Late 2E49′ No. Longe 12E10′ Wt. P.M. Fresh breezes & cloudy. 5. Wore Ship. Head W.b N.
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Sunday 11 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 11.-For the last two days the wind has been blowing right astern, which, though it sent us on at a rapid rate, caused the vessel to rock from side to side in a manner that was very unpleasant.
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Monday 12 September 1836
12 September-Heavy rain with strong gusts of wind; could do nothing in the survey.
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Sunday 11 September 1836
8 p.m. Sunday, 11th September. Our Sealer and his women were dispatched this morning to Encounter Bay to endeavour to engage some of the natives to take care of the garden during our cruize. I have again remained at home all day. The weather is again fair, the wind having moderated.
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Sunday 11 September 1836
This 24 hours strong winds from the eastward I left the Cignet safe to anchor and returned on board found the officers and crew all well and was kindly received by them for which I decire to be gratefull. For Allmighty god and saviour and for keeping them and me and hope to be made […]
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Monday 12 September 1836
9 p.m. Monday, 12th September. This morning Field and I started with the jolly-boat after breakfast to try our luck with the hook and line and in the course of two hours we caught sufficient fish for all hands. Among them were the Bream, Cavaheros Rock-Cod and a very curious looking fish called by our […]
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Monday 12 September 1836
This 24 hours strong winds from the southd attended with rain employd wooding and other jobs as needfull carpenter fitting the boats In the evening had family worship read the 32d chapt of exidous with comment sung and found god to be Jehovah sung with melody in our hearts – I find to day that […]
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Monday 12 September 1836
Monday, Septr 12th. Moderate & cloudy wr. Head W.b N. Wind S.W.b S. Washed clothes. Miles run 111 +3917 = 4028. Lat. 2E40′ North. Longe 12E33′ Wt. P.M. Modte & cloudy. making very little progress.
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Saturday 10 September 1836
Saturday September 10th 1836 This 24 hours blowing hard from the SE I still keept on board of the Cignet we where beating towards the harbour and make ing but little way heareing the people giveing three chears foreward I in inquired and found it was on account of the birth of the before mentioned […]
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Saturday 10 September 1836
Remained on board all day as the weather was not tempting and I felt fatigued with yesterday’s ramble. The women returned this morning with a fine kangaroo part of which Hill and myself dined off. All the rest of the Officers dined on shore at the tents. They have been busy digging up a piece […]
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Saturday 10 September 1836
…Having found that there had been a good deal of petty thieving from the Company’s stores I to day dismissed the person (Neal) who had the charge (by night) of it and appointed Mr Shreyvogel to take his place.
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Saturday 10 September 1836
10 September-Fresh breezes and fine weather, very cold air. Employed all day examining the valley.
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Saturday 10 September 1836
Saturday, Septr 10. Modte & hazy wr. Head S.E. Wind S.S.W. Washed lower deck, & got up the emigrants’ luggage. Noon. Do Wr. No observation of the Sun. Miles run 73 + 3756 = 3829. Lat. D.R. 3E22′ N. Longe 13E40′ W. P.M. Moderate and hazy. Sunset. Mustered at Quarters, & in 1st & 2d […]
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Saturday 10 September 1836
10th at noon within 6 miles of point Marsden close hauled beating up with a strong tide carrying us bodily to leeward the moon was new at midnight the old moon having passed the Meridian at 20 to 12. At 2 oclock on the morning of the 10th the tide appeared to slacken for the […]
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Saturday 10 September 1836
Sept 10th During last Night, the other poor Merino Ram that came up from Kingscote in such a miserable condition died, his Loins were very much bruised, and Kidneys swell’d, which I have no doubt was caused by the rough usage he experienced in the Journey to this Station the 30th Ult
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Friday 9 September 1836
9th. Rose at 3 A.M. had a cup of tea and at a few minutes past 4 put off with Mr Dawsea & 5 hands for the well below Point Marsden taking a raft of casks in tow to fill with water. Landed at 15 minutes to 7 & soon after put off again with […]
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Friday 9 September 1836
9th Sep sailed up Investigators Strait with the
wind from the Southward. when about 14
miles from point Marsden we were board
by a boat which proved to be the
whale boat of the Duke of York whose
Captain was in her. He had come round
for vegetables which were grown in the
garden of a settler. He informed us that
the Duke of York had anchored 44 days
that the Lady Mary Pelham, the John
Pirie had also arrived as well as Coll
Light with the Rapid. We learnt also
that Coll Light having waited for a
a fortnight had left the Island to
proceed round the Gulph St Vincent
about 2 days ago.
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Friday 9 September 1836
Sept 9th Mr Stephens came up to this Station, he had a Lot of Tools in the boat for us, after remaining here a short time, he left, taking Mitchell along with him ________
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Friday 9 September 1836
9 September-Being so much pleased with my excursion yesterday, I determined on running the brig more in shore, and remaining here some days; we therefore got under way, and ran into seven fathoms water; at nine, sent four tents on shore, but it took us nearly till dark before we could land all that was […]
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Friday 9 September 1836
Friday September 9th 1836
This 24 hours strong winds at times at ½ past 5 in the mor
ning I left the ship with one boat to procure some vegatable
to one of the sealers farms we rowed about 13 miles and
landed at the farm a most miseryable place We began
to dig pertatoes and percured about half a sack we got a few
turnips and some cabages seeing a sail off the farm I went
on board and found it to be the Cignet with 99 men women
and Children on board and the 100th born while on board
which was a girl this ship was to be here as soon as ourselves
but is 45 days after so much for bosting they have all bing preserved in
health and safety but curseing swareing on board in abundance
the surveyors where thankfull for my little services in pointing out to
them the harbour for which they where extremely wellcome
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Friday 9 September 1836
Friday, Septr 9. Moderate breezes & fine. An American barque to leeward. Head S.E.b E. Wind S.b W. Miles run, 84 + 3672 = 3756. Late 3E50′ No. Longe […] One mile nearer the line than yesterday. P.M. Light winds & fine. In 2d reefs.
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Friday 9 September 1836
We weighed at daybreak and ran in a mile nearer the beach and after breakfast Hill and I with the jolly-boat’s crew took the seine and our guns on shore, but with both were equally unsuccessful. We however had more time for examining the country and the more we saw of it the more we […]
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Thursday 8 September 1836
SEPTEMBER 8.-A delightful morning and not so cold; very little wind ancl making slow progress.
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Thursday 8 September 1836
September 8th Margaret Clark is again in disgrace. Yesterday she bit her fellow servant’s arm so as to cause the blood to flow from each indentation of the teeth, and scratched her mercilessly. On the girl’s complaining to me I sent her to the captain and requested him to use his discretion about the punishment to be inflicted. Having heard both parties and finding Clark altogether to blame, he ordered the steward to cut off the hair from one side of her head which was immediately done; the culprit however seemed to treat the matter rather as a good joke, than as a punishment, laughing and talking with the people about her during the whole operation. I cannot but think the girl is deranged; if not, surely there never was so malicious and designing a little [tooltip color=”grey” text=”a derogatory term applied to women”] jade [/tooltip] in human guise. It is our intention to leave her at the Cape under the protection of the Committee of the [tooltip color=”grey” text=”The Children’s Friend Society was one of a number of schemes designed to promote child migration as a means of improving public order. It was formed in 1830 as the ‘Society for the Suppression of Juvenile Vagrancy, through the reformation and emigration of children’ and by 1832 had sent children to the Cape of Good Hope and the Swan River Colony. Others were sent to Canada.”] Children’s Friend Society [/tooltip], in exchange for another girl if one can be procured. The other girl (Vincent) behaves with great propriety and is fast ingratiating herself into the esteem of her mistress.
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Thursday 8 September 1836
Before leaving [Kangaroo Island] the Colonel engaged a man by the name of Cooper
& his family, a sealer & had been about 7 years on the Island he was to
act as Pilot his wives (two native women) and Kangaroo dogs
were to supply us with fresh meat. When all ready started for Gulf
St Vincent the distance across from Nepean Bay to Cape Jervis
the East pt of the Gulf being about 25 miles we reached it that
evening. Many & various were the opinions given on the near
approach to the land, it was indeed beautiful presenting
more the appearance of a park than land that had
been for centuries trodden by uncultivated savages. How
anxious were we to get on shore, no sooner was the anchor down
& sails furled than off we started appearances had
not indeed deceived us we were delighted & many castles
built and conjectures on prosperity likely to arise
out of such a scene as was presented to us, Nothing
but luxuriant foliage & oh! a thick sward of many
and various flowers what was to expected from the
act of man when such was the state of the place while
in a Nature’s garden. Cooper was sent off with
his women to bring in the tribe of the place while we were
busily employed getting tents & provisions on shore for the
Colonel & surveying party it being the intention to remain
here a few days. A garden was made & stocked with seeds
we had brought with us The Bay and valley examined to
satisfaction & named after the brig being the first vessel
ever having anchored there
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Thursday 8 September 1836
Thursday Sept 8 due E went about fine G White apperd to Strike me and his brother made a List of names for Mr Nep.
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Thursday 8 September 1836
Thursday September 8th 1836 This 24 hours gentle breeses from the SE sent some water casks to the well some people wooding and some pain ting dried the sails carpenter employd fitting a boat and other work as needfull In the everning had family prayer read a lecture on the parable of the sower delivered […]
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Thursday 8 September 1836
Weighed at daybreak and after a very pleasant sail came to at 1 p.m. just under the western side of Cape Jervis in a Bay affording good shelter except for North-West winds. The land from the ship had a very promising appearance and when we landed, which a party of us did after dinner we […]
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Thursday 8 September 1836
Thursday, Septr 8. Modte & fine. Wind S.S.W. Tacked. Head S.E. Miles run, 97 + 3575 = 3672. Lat. 3E51′ No. Longe 16E28′ Wt. P.M. Do Wr. A dutch brig in Co. Also a Ship to leeward. Sunset. In 1st reefs of the topsails. Midnight. Light winds & fine.
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